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July 26th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
Sunrise on the Diamond on July 20th, 2007
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
July 26th Conditions Report
This has been one of the best July weeks in years in Rocky Mountain National Park as there was no rain or storm threat for the entire week and temperatures have been mild for mid-summer. Although the skies were not completely clear, it was one of the best times for alpine rock routes and not until yesterday afternoon did our "storm-free" pattern change for the worse and it looks like this weekend will be less than ideal for going big in the mountains...unless you are fast.
Sunrise on the north and east faces of Longs Peak on July 22nd
What little snow is left in the high country is firm neve and crampons will be helpful for the approach to the lower east slabs of the Diamond and to the northwest face of Chiefshead in the Glacier Gorge. The Keyhole and North Face routes on Longs Peak are completely dry and the summit of Longs has been a busy place these days with weekends seeing more than 100 summitters a day.
A view of Chiefshead Peak (13,579') with the Spearhead below
The alpine rock faces have been busy as well and the Petit, Diamond, and Hallett have been seeing most of the action with up to a half dozen parties vying for first lead on the most popular routes on these classic granite and gneiss walls. Luckily there are hundreds of classics in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park and with a little imagination, it is easy to have a route to oneself if you just avoid the park's "10 crowded classics" which would include: The Casual, Yellow Wall, and D7 on the Diamond, South Face of the Petit, North Ridge and Sykes SIckle on Spearhead, Culp-Bossier and Love on Hallett, and the Spiral and South Ridges of the Notchtop Spire.
The other option is to skip some work days and visit these very worthwhile routes during the week when the crowds are low in most spots.
The Second Buttress on Hallett in afternoon light on July 23rd
Matthew Helm on pitch 4 out of 6 on the Love Route, Hallett's North Buttress
Lumpy Ridge has been relatively quiet all summer compared to the days of old. Perhaps the extra 1/2 mile of walking each way to the cliffs has slowed down some or possibly the idea of placing removable gear rather than clipping bolts has gone somewhat out of fashion. It does seem that the crags in Boulder Canyon where sport climbing, extensive gardening, chipping holds and bolting next to cracks have become extremely popular if not a bit disgusting as of recent. Even the climbing gyms can be crowded on weekends for those who want to avoid the sun, potential insect bites, plant scratches, or for those who feel that climbing should be accompanied by an Ipod produced soundtrack. Whatever the reasons, it is nice to hear at Lumpy the cries of the falcon and the coyote howl rather than car horns or the many cries of "take" that pervade the lower canyons nearby Boulder.
Phillip Waldo topping out on the classic "White Whale" 5.7 on Lumpy Ridge
17 year old Phillip Waldo perfecting gear placements via aid climbing on the "Little Twin Owls Finger Crack" 5.11 or C1
It looks like after this weekend of rain, the skies should clear and we will likely be back in another spell of perfect summer weather for alpine starts, sunrises and 100 mile vistas from the mountain tops. When we say "alpine start", that typically means leaving the car in the dark with the plan of arriving at the base of our chosen route by sunrise (around 5:30am). By reaching our chosen summit and starting down by noon or earlier, we hope to avoid the lightning risk as electrocution is apparently a very unpleasant experience and one that can mostly be avoided with this early approach.
Looking at the west face of Longs Peak from near the summit of Hallett Peak on July 23rd
Sunrise at the base of Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 23rd, 2007
A view of Lake Haiyaha in Chaos Canyon - one of the premier bouldering areas in the world
Most of the big animals are hiding up high to avoid the heat and to take advantage of the copious wildflowers and grasses growing above timberline in the park. Everywhere, the hummingbirds have been thick with all of the flowers this year and our bird feeder at home is a nightly battleground for this homemade nectar. Our local young black bear "Henry" has also been visiting with the hopes of a taste of the nectar as well. A couple of campsites in the National Park have been closed due to a few black bears like Henry that have become too accustomed to people and so locking up the garbage and all potential food sources will help in keeping these beautiful wild animals alive and healthy.
"Henry" going for some sweet nectar at the Helmuth homestead
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