Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

January 3rd, 2008   

                                                    Sunrise on January 3rd, 2008

Happy New Year!   There was a distinct and almost eerily calm change as the dawn of the 1st brought no wind and clear skies to the Estes Valley and the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park after what had been a five-day mountain hurricane of biblical proportions.  The combination of 30-50 mph constant winds combined with temperatures just above 0 Fahrenheit at 10,000' in the high country made backcountry travel difficult at best and easily treacherous if an injury had meant any delay.  But we managed to get in some good days of climbing tucked into the trees and valleys where the wind-deposited snow was piling up thick in spots and areas like the Hidden Falls, Gem Lake and the route Jaws were temperate enough to offer respite from the cold.

                          Lars Lofgren training on a mixed variation of Hidden Falls in late December

The cold temperatures combined with high wind and low humidity have shrunk many of the higher elevation ice routes and likely much of the highest elevation cold routes like Alexander's Chimney have shrunk drastically in the cold.  Areas like the Loch Vale that are no longer growing are actually shrinking quickly due to the combination of ingredients which not only sublimate the moisture in the ice, but also in the snowpack.  Hiking into the Loch Vale yesterday to get pumped on the dagger of "Blade Runner", we found up to 6 inches of fresh wind-blown snow on the trails and when doing a safer variation to the last bit of approach, in snowshoes the penetration was almost completely to the ground in an 80cm snowpack.  It was all basically very weak facets from top to bottom of the snowpack and as there was no "hard" layer on top of all these large diameter and loosely packed  snow grains, the avalanche danger was likely CONSIDERABLE on steeper slopes where some wind loading had created up to 1 foot thick medium density slabs which were fracturing and propagating easily with body weight. 

This section of trail just past the turn-off to the Loch Vale Ice Area, that in the summer turns sharply right up the hill in switchbacks on it's way to the Loch, Skypond, or Andrews Glacier, has taken a dangerous turn this week.  This winter-time variation recently put in by unknowing snowshoers, takes a direct line up a tight canyon where the avalanche danger is CONSIDERABLE due to slopes steeper than 35 degrees with a weak snowpack and unanchored slopes made worse by the terrain trap of the stream at the bottom.  This should be an obviously poor route choice this time of year with our snowpack.  The switchback trail is sometimes covered with snow and a keen eye can detect it's turn of direction at this point.

The winter-time short-cut trail is now IN as it takes the canyon bottom outlined in red from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead (GGT) on it's way to Mills Lake (yellow) or the Loch Vale.  The regular summertime trail is marked in green.

With the constant high-wind regime that we are unfortunately forecast to endure for most of this winter (see Dan's La Nina Update), the higher elevation climbs will be difficult to plan in advance as the weather is highly dynamic and only last minute forecasts will be reliable.   Route's like Martha or on more exposed formations such as the Sharkstooth in the Cathedral Spires Massif above the Loch Vale have been enduring 100mph plus winds this last week and what areas that are not snow-free will have the highest avalanche danger unless the surface is pencil hard density slabs which are thick and typically do not fracture but are very strong layers in the snowpack and much of what sits on south, north, and west-facing slopes above treeline along with a few pocket of lee-loaded slabs in some of the higher couloirs.

A long-range view of the Cathedral Spires with the Sharkstooth and the routes on it's northeast face outlined.

The Estes Valley is more dry than not at the moment and Lumpy Ridge has been drying out in the last few days of temperatures above freezing which unfortunately looks to be but a short break before the next storm system hits this weekend.  Lows last night here at 9,000 were only 38F and it has been showing 60F in the sun which has been good for melting out the driveway and neighborhood roads which have been a sheet of ice.  Roads up to Bear Lake and the Hidden Valley are also snow-packed and icy in spots and snow tires or all-wheel drive vehicles are recommended.

Snowshoes have been the best mode of travel with loose snow on trails and exposed ice on the alpine lakes from wind scouring.

                   The surface of Mills Lake in late December with the ice at least 2 feet thick in this location.

The skiing has been mostly shit in the park so far this winter and we are keeping our fingers crossed that the forecast 1 inch of water this weekend could result in up to a foot of fresh powder and then we would have some skiing.  If the wind continues to be a factor as it has been these last few weeks, there is little else to do but find sheltered locations to play and if that involves skiiing, then spots below treeline where there is snow covered terrain that has a reasonable snowpack would be ideal.  If you find this place, please let me know.  The ski mountaineering will have to wait until the wind slows and the snow can be allowed to fill-in the many couloirs and faces of the high peaks.

                   A view of the All Mixed Up cirque from Mills Lake during the post-Christmas wind events

As always in the winter environment, all pertinent resources should be checked before heading into the backcountry and here in Colorado, the CAIC website should be consulted daily for the most up-to-date avalanche forecast information for all of the different mountain ranges of the state. 

While the high elevation climbing and skiing have been mostly OUT, the good news is that the ice has been continuing to grow IN many locations and as long as temperatures stay below freezing, the classic and heat-affected routes such as Jaws and The Squid are in perfect condition and with short approaches and striking lines, these can be done numerous times as they change character throughout the winter season.

Getting in another lap on the constantly changing Jaws in the Fern Canyon area of the Odessa Gorge in RMNP

I will be in-country and working and playing mostly out of RMNP this winter and am available for private training in any and all of the climbing and ski mountaineering sports.  I also share many days out with my guests fulfilling their dream list of ice, rock and alpine routes here in RMNP and throughout the world.  From beginner to guide candidate, I enjoy working with people of all levels of climbing and skiing ability and helping each reach their maximum potential in the mountains.  Please contact me at  This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it   if you would like to discuss your climbing and training goals for this year and beyond.  In the meantime, I hope to see you out there!

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