Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

January 25th, 2008   

After more than a month of sub-freezing temperatures in the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park, yesterday was a welcome blast of spring with temperatures at 10,000' rising above the freezing level for the first time this year and combined with no wind and bright sunshine, it was a treat beyond compare.

                        Early morning sun on the Tyndall Gorge of RMNP on January 24th, 2008

Our party of four were able to enjoy a full day of spring-like ski mountaineering in the Dragontail Couloirs with avalanche danger on these southeast facing slopes currently in the MODERATE range due to a deeper snowpack in this location ( 2-3 meters) and the result of terrain which avalanches regularly during new snow cycles and thus typically breaks-up and negates potential weak layers in the snowpack.

                  The Dragontail and Dead Elk Couloirs (R-L) on Flattop Mountain on Jan. 24th, 2008 

Until recently, skiing conditions in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park have been marginal with too much wind and too little snow combining to make for less than ideal coverage or stability.  There are still plenty of troublesome spots in the high country, especially on unsupported slopes (cliff at the bottom) or those steeper slopes with a cornice at the top (Tyndall, Ptarmagin, Taylor Glaciers) that lack support from above.  But these spots are easy to avoid and the below- treeline skiing in the Glacier Knobs area (Terrain Park) and on the warmer, south-facing aspects has been superb for much of this last week. 

                             Simon Fryer throwing up some powder on the Dead Elk Couloir, RMNP

This weekend's forecast of more new snow will be helpful for increasing our still spotty coverage but combined with strong winds as forecast, a decent snowfall this weekend will also increase avalanche danger, especially on those slopes that become lee loaded.

               Chuck Bird dropping a knee into some creamy snow on a descent of the classic Dead Elk Couloir

                Chuck and Simon climbing up the steeper "Dead Elk Left" Couloir on Flattop Mountain

                       Simon laying down a track on the first integral descent of the "Dead Elk Left" Couloir

The trail systems into Black Lake, the Loch Vale, and Emerald Lake on the east side of the park are in great shape at the moment with lots of snowshoe traffic helping to keep the snow hard-packed and easy enough for boot travel but ideal with skis or snowshoes.  The ice climb All MIxed Up has been seeing a fair bit of traffic recently as avalanche danger is currently MODERATE in this location.  The West Gully further up valley and the route Martha, above Chasm Lake are two of the more avalanche threatened popular ice routes at present.  The approach into Chasm Lake holds the highest avalanche danger for Martha and on the West Gully, the danger is more concentrated on the approach and descent. 

                           The west face of Longs Peak in the afternoon sunlight on Jan. 24th, 2008

The west face of Longs Peak continues to be in great shape for climbing and skiing and this is likely the least avalanche prone and most direct way to the summit of Longs in the winter months.  An alternative approach to reach Chasm Lake and routes like Martha would be to descend from the "Camel" via the boulderfield.  The Martha route description shows this alternative descent option which is also the easiest way to return to Chasm Lake from the top of the route.  This area likely has only MODERATE avalanche danger compared to the CONSIDERABLE to HIGH avalanche danger forecast for those approach slopes on the regular trail into Chasm Lake.

      Ed Havraneck pulling over the final bulge after the sustained crux of The Squid in the Tyndall Gorge

Yesterday's heat spell no doubt did some damage to the ice route The Squid, as well as Jaws as this lower elevation and south-facing curtain of ice is a hot spot in the park and it could be too dangerously warm today or this weekend to consider ascending.  Top-roping here is a big risk as well as the multi-ton columns of ice in the middle of this curtain would be the first to collapse and being anywhere near when this happens could be disastrous.

If this change in weather means that we're emerging from the dark, cold, depths of mid-winter then a big Congratulations! to everyone who has braved and survived what has been perhaps the coldest month in a decade in the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. 

If you are interested in pursuing some training and pure fun in any of the climbing or skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of training methods and itinerary's that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals. 

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!

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