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Ice Conditions - updated Jan. 31st |
Ice and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide and AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.
WARNING: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. Climbing Life and it's contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice climbing is very dangerous and one can easily kill themselves in this sport.
January 31st Conditions:
Rocky Mountain National Park saw a noticeable rise in temperatures last weekend with almost a 20 degree upswing that brought us highs just above freezing for the first time in over a month at 10,000'. The heat may have affected the strength of a couple of classics such as Jaws and The Squid, but these two are still standing and with highs today and for the remainder of this week in the single digits in these locations, these two south-facing ice curtains will remain standing for some time to come.
Longs Peak, the Loft and Mt. Meeker (R-L) from the east on Jan. 31st, 2008
The clouds and wind up high this last week have helped to keep temperatures relatively cool and snowfall was constant in the peaks on Wednesday, Friday, and on Sunday night's last week where as much as a meter of new snow was deposited in leeward locations below treeline in spots such as the Loch Vale Ice area. There has been little to no new snow in RMNP since the weekend despite accumulations in the Front Range.
Strong winds scraping the Continental Divide of Colorado on Jan. 31st, 2008
Other high elevation areas have been wind-swept as a result of the turbulent and ferocious winds which again scoured the high country on Monday the 28th and which continued all week today with gusts exceeding 80mph on the ridgecrests and a constant flow of snow being blown off the mountain sides being sublimated back into the atmosphere, last seen heading east.
The Squid, still standing and in WI 5+ shape on Jan. 29th, 2008
As long as the cold temperatures continue, the RMNP favorites: Jaws and The Squid will continue to stay solid and climbable as they are at the moment. However, if the temperature rises above freezing, the sun could quickly take out either of these two excellent, steeper ice routes. Being even close to these beasts when they fall down is a scary proposition, and it would be best to avoid either if the sun is beating down hot in these locations.
Ed Havraneck on The Squid on Jan. 21st, 2008
Avalanche conditions in the high country are a range from LOW to CONSIDERABLE with the highest danger being in steep and lee avalanche terrain above treeline, especially on unsupported slopes like those at the base of the east face of Notchtop Mountain which can also threaten the routes nearby such as Hot Doggies, New Beginnings and Grace Falls. Other popular classics such as the All Mixed Up on Thatchtop Mountain have some avalanche danger but the greatest risk may be the severe postholing through the forest to the base of this route. Up to a meter of new and wind-deposited snow has landed in this and other similar lee locations which makes for great downhill skiing but difficult uphill travel.
The east face of Thatchtop Mountain on Jan. 29th, 2008
Continued snowfall and high winds throughout much of this last week have made access to some of the more avalanche exposed locations like Hot Doggies or Martha still dodgy for the moment as some of the areas of highest danger are currently above or blocking the way to these classic routes which lie at either end of the difficulty spectrum. The final slope to Chasm Meadows on the approach to Martha had a strong CONSIDERABLE danger again this last week due to severe wind loading, which means that human-caused slab avalanches are probable and based on the view from here of Longs Peak, there is likely an excessive amount of loading in this and similar locations at the moment.
The north face of Longs does currently look like mostly bare ground from here after the hurricane winds of the last few days. The west face of Longs is equally scoured and a good choice of route to the summit of RMNP's highest peak. For the most up-to-date avalanche forecasts and accident reports for the entire state of Colorado, please consult the Colorado Avalanche Information Center website for daily updated reports
Please contact me at
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if you would like to discuss training in ice or mixed climbing, avalanche education, or any type of rock climbing, ski mountaineering or guide training programs.
Routes are sorted by current Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 3+ |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 3- |
|
|
|
|
IN
(bit stepped-out) |
IN
(sublimating) |
IN |
MODERATE Avalanche Danger
WI 3-5 |
WI 5 |
WI 4 |
 |
|
|
IN
(at 3+ to 5) |
IN
(at 5+) |
IN |
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5
|
Black Lake Slabs
WI 2
|
 |
|
|
OUT
|
OUT |
IN
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
WI 3
|
WI 3
|
WI 2, M 1 |
|
|
|
IN
(great shape) |
IN
|
IN
(HIGH avi danger
on approach) |
|
Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
|
|
|
OUT
(usually July)
|
OUT
(usually June)
|
OUT |
Grace Falls
WI 3-4 |
|
|
IN
(growing) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
OUT
(due to high
avalanche danger)
|
OUT
|
OUT |
HIGH Avalanche Danger
The Window
WI 5, M4
|
Vanquished
WI 5, M4
|
Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
 |
 |
 |
OUT
|
OUT |
OUT |
WI 3+, M1 |
 |
OUT
(due to high avalanche danger) |
| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain on certain aspects (defined in accompanying statement). |
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges of lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs. |
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