Ice and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth;  Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide and AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.

January 15th Conditions:

New snow amounts this last week in Rocky Mountain National Park were approximately a foot deep as a result of more than four days of light but steady snow in the high peaks which blanketed the high country.  Many of the great skiing spots such as Emerald Lake and the Hidden Valley now have almost full coverage and as a result, the avalanche danger for some of the higher altitude ice climbs has risen.  Steady winds throughout much of the week-long storm system created drifting on lee slopes which are now covering the compass on all north, east, and south aspects and in many spots, avalanche danger is CONSIDERABLE or HIGH as a result of the more than 24 inches of snow that is loaded in some of these locations.

               Steve Johnson getting pumped about another lap on the stunning ice route: The Squid

Warm temperatures the last couple of days, especially at elevations below 9,000' will have helped to strengthen the south and west-facing slopes and likely melted away some of the ice on the warmer routes such as Jaws and The Squid.  Luckily we are forecast for another week of cold and new snow which will only aid in keeping these usually very ephemeral routes around for as long as possible.  Skis may now be a better approach option for routes above 10,000' as the snowpack is thick and deep enough in most spots.  Last week on the way into the alpine route Martha on Mount Lady Washington, we found very loaded snow slopes on the south side of Mt. Lady and so turned around before reaching the Chasm meadows due to  these very steep and currently loaded aspects.  Much of the approach was on dry ground above treeline, and the trail through the forest below is filled in thick with snow.

                        Matt Parker avoiding the mouth of the beast on Jaws, Moraine Park, RMNP

Most of the slopes at and below treeline are quite faceted and weak from top to bottom and this is making for more difficult approach conditions as well as higher avalanche danger than usual this season.  North and east facing slopes above treeline are a mix of very dense slabs sitting on top of thin, faceted layers and all of this sitting on a bed of depth hoar which is sitting at the bottom of a 1- 1.5 meter deep snowpack in the Tyndall Gorge region of RMNP.   This kind of snowpack "sandwich" is a dangerous one as the recent deadly avalanche throughout the state this season have shown.  For the most up-to-date avalanche forecasts and accident reports for the entire state of Colorado, please consult the Colorado Avalanche Information Center website for daily updated reports.

                      Matt getting in some mixed training in the Loch Vale ice area of RMNP

Please contact me at   This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it   if you would like to discuss a training program in ice or mixed climbing, avalanche education, or any of the climbing or ski mountaineering arts. 

LOW Avalanche Danger          

MODERATE Avalanche Danger

Necrophilia WI 5, M5	Deep Freeze   WI5, M5	Black Lake Slabs  WI 2
OUT	OUT	IN

CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger

HIGH Avalanche Danger 

The Window WI 5,  M4	Vanquished WI 5,  M4	Hot Doggie WI 5+
OUT	OUT	OUT

East Face of Notchtop WI 3+,  M1

OUT (due to high avalanche danger)

Comments (0)