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Ice Conditions - updated Feb. 21st |
Ice and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide and AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.
WARNING: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. Climbing Life and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice climbing is very dangerous and one can easily kill themselves in this sport.
February 21st Conditions:
The last few days at 9,500' in Rocky Mountain National Park have see high temp.'s reach almost 40F and combined with the strong sunlight, this "warm spell" will have likely done some serious damage to the lower elevation ice routes including Jaws and the Big Thompson Ice flows. We managed to enjoy two full days on all of the many variations, including a couple of moderate mixed routes, on Jaws this Sunday and Monday. Despite seeing warmer temperatures then forecast, the ice stayed in decent shape for most of each day and only during the peak heat between 11-1pm on Sunday was there much damage being done to this immense piece of ice.
Jaws on Feb. 18th with the Notchtop Massif in the distance
Snowfall amounts in RMNP over the last week have been minimal with about a 1/2 inch of water-snow equivalent landing at Bear Lake in the last 7 days which would be approximately 6 inches of new snow landing in this location. Strong winds with a 40mph average and gusts up to 70mph were raking the above treeline landscape constantly since Saturday and only today have the winds lessened as another weak snow system moves through the area. As a result, the North Face of Longs looked mostly snow-free yesterday as much of the alpine terrain was scoured during these hurricane force gusts and constant.
Chris Erickson mixing it up on "Shark Bait Left" (M2) next to the Jaws Falls
Looking up at the NF of Longs this morning at sunrise, there was a new, thin layer of snow from last night covering the rocks but this will probably be gone quick once the wind hits 30mph up there again which may or not happen by the weekend. The park was above the clouds yesterday and in the strong sunlight that the highest altitudes receive, and so the thermal effect was considerable on the sunnier aspects the last two days.
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A close-up of the WI3 version of Jaws on the west side of the formation
Warmer temperatures will finally help begin the strengthening and stabilization of snowslopes; primarily on south and west facing aspects to start and eventually by late spring, the colder north and east-facing slopes will be strengthened by a long-term, snowgrain rounding and bonding (sintering) process. This will take some time, so patience is key but the warmest slopes where rocks help absorb energy and heat the snowpack and where there is less wind (which causes convective cooling of the snow) will gain strength the fastest and hopefully the slopes which access Chasm Lake and the Longs/Meeker cirque are gaining stability quickly under the current weather regime. I am planning on heading to Martha next week and we are counting on some more of the same sunny weather to make the approach slopes safer for foot travel.
The west face of Longs Peak and the Trough Couloir on Feb. 15th, 2008
As usual in the winter months, ridges and windward-facing slopes (west) are always the better places for safer travel and so the ridges on peaks such as Longs (north ridge) and Meeker (east ridge) will be the best bets for a winter ascents, especially once the winds have died down to a more reasonable level as they are at this moment. T he Trough Couloir on Longs Peak continues to be the safest avenue for a winter ascent of this northern-most 14er in the state of Colorado and with almost 3,000' of vertical elevation gain on snow that provides very good cramponing conditions, this is a classic and direct path to the summit. I have skied the snow covered sections of this couloir (from 13,200 to 11,500") a couple of times in the last month and the climbing conditions have been ideal with no crampons needed on the most recent ascent- but that would be an anomaly on this usually sustrugi covered snowslope.
On the right side of the WI5 section of Jaws, in the Moraine Park of RMNP
Avalanche conditions in the high country are still a wide range from LOW to CONSIDERABLE with the highest danger being in steep and lee avalanche terrain above treeline, especially on unsupported slopes like those at the base of the east face of Notchtop Mountain which can also threaten the routes nearby such as Hot Doggies, New Beginnings and Grace Falls. Other popular classics such as the All Mixed Up on Thatchtop Mountain have some avalanche danger and on 2/15 I observed a fresh crown just right of the start of the route in the foot deep top layer of snow. Hopefully this route has been getting some recent traffic, otherwise the greatest risk there may be due to the severe postholing through the forest to the base of this route. Up to a meter of new and wind-deposited snow has landed in this and other similar lee locations in recent week, which makes for great downhill skiing but difficult uphill travel.
With the warmer weather this week and a holiday on Monday, many of the high country trails have seen serious snowshoe traffic and so the approach to Hidden Falls, Jaws, the Loch Vale, Jewel Lake, and even Black Lake are well beaten-in and travel is easy due to this helpful snowshoe maintenance. There is some new snow falling in the peaks this evening of 2/21, but totals are in the 1-3 inch range thus far and will likely be minimal enough as to not affect the avalanche danger at this time.
For the most up-to-date avalanche forecasts and accident reports for the entire state of Colorado, please consult the Colorado Avalanche Information Center website for daily updated reports
Please contact me at
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if you would like to discuss training in ice or mixed climbing, avalanche education, or any type of rock climbing, ski mountaineering or guide training programs.
Routes are sorted by current Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 3+ |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 3- |
|
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|
|
IN
(bit stepped-out) |
IN
(sublimating) |
IN |
WI 3-5 |
WI 5 |
WI 4 |
 |
|
|
IN
(at 3+ to 5) |
IN
(at 5+) |
IN |
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5
|
Black Lake Slabs
WI 2
|
 |
|
|
OUT
|
OUT |
IN
|
MODERATE Avalanche Danger
WI 3
|
WI 3
|
WI 2, M 1 |
|
|
|
IN
(great shape) |
IN
|
IN
(HIGH avi danger
on approach) |
|
Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
|
|
|
OUT
(usually July)
|
OUT
(usually June)
|
OUT |
Grace Falls
WI 3-4 |
|
|
IN
(growing) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
OUT
(due to high
avalanche danger)
|
OUT
|
OUT |
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
The Window
WI 5, M4
|
Vanquished
WI 5, M4
|
Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
 |
 |
 |
OUT
|
OUT |
OUT |
HIGH Avalanche Danger
WI 3+, M1 |
 |
OUT
(due to high avalanche danger) |
| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain on certain aspects (defined in accompanying statement). |
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges of lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs. |
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