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Ice Conditions - updated Feb. 14th |
Ice and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide and AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.
WARNING: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. Climbing Life and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice climbing is very dangerous and one can easily kill themselves in this sport.
February 14th Conditions:
Temperatures at 9,500' (Bear Lake) in Rocky Mountain National Park reached 37 degrees Fahrenheit yesterday and this is the warmest day so far in 2008. It has been a colder than usual start to the year with average temperatures in this same location hovering in the teens to single digits for the last 6 weeks and only two other days so far have exceeded the freezing level at these elevations. This could be bad news for the warmest and best ice routes in the park, Jaws and The Squid, as they likely lost some volume over the week. Colder temperatures this morning (14F) will help, and we may have a few more days to enjoy these two classics which have survived for a record length of time this season.
Three parties on variations of Jaws in the hot sun on Feb. 10th, 2008
Lars Lofgren and I spent Sunday the 10th, training on ice and mixed terrain at Jaws with two other parties and although the ice was dangerously soft for leading during the mid-day hours, it seemed plenty stable for top-roping. Despite the warm temperatures and strong sun, only small chunks of ice came off from the climbers and no natural ice fall took place on this day. Water was running in spots and it seemed that parts of the route were actually growing in these melt - freeze conditions. The route is in the shade from 7-9am and from 3-7pm each day and when it is warm, these are the times for leading while the ice is still cold enough to hold a screw. Warm ice with screws absorbing heat from the sun is a recipe for disaster should the leader take a whipper and this would be a quick way to "clean the pitch".
On Sunday, I replaced the piton anchor at the 30m height on the left side of Jaws with a stainless steel, (3/8" by 4") 2-bolt anchor that still needs a 7.5" piece of steel chain to best equalize the bolts. The original anchor had consisted of a total of 7 pieces plus meters of cordage that connected together mostly short knifeblades (they came out easily), and an arrow and nut behind a loose flake (out even easier). For now there are a couple of locking carabiners making for a solid but non- equalized anchor.
A mixed variation to the right of Jaws named "Shark Bait"(M2) which stops in the rock bowl at a 2-piton anchor
Although other parts of the state have been seeing significant new snowfall this week, Bear Lake has recorded only 4 inches of new snow in the last seven days. But with wind speeds at 11k averaging well above 40 mph with gusts in the 70mph range (74 is the minimum wind speed of hurricane conditions) for the entire week, it has been a maelstrom in the high peaks and I will be heading back up tomorrow to check-on the changes to the snowpack and will update with more specifics in the overall RMNP conditions report for tomorrow afternoon. If conditions remain calm, I might go for the summit of Longs and another ski descent of the Trough Couloir as these could be ideal conditions. At the moment (8am on 2/14), wind speeds are below 5mph at and above 11,000' and with light snow falling and literally no wind, this would be the perfect time to be climbing on Longs Peak and Mount Meeker. If you leave now you could be back before dark!?
As usual in the winter months, ridges and windward-facing slopes (west) are always the better places for safer travel and so the ridges on peaks such as Longs (north ridge) and Meeker (east ridge) will be the best bets for a winter ascents, especially once the winds have died down to a more reasonable level as they are at this moment. The Trough Couloir on Longs Peak continues to be the safest avenue for a winter ascent of this northern-most 14er in the state of Colorado and with almost 3,000' of vertical elevation gain on snow that provides very good cramponing conditions, this is a classic and direct path to the summit.
Lars Lofgren enjoying the route "Shark Bait" to the right of the Jaws Falls in Fern Canyon, RMNP
Avalanche conditions in the high country are still a wide range from LOW to CONSIDERABLE with the highest danger being in steep and lee avalanche terrain above treeline, especially on unsupported slopes like those at the base of the east face of Notchtop Mountain which can also threaten the routes nearby such as Hot Doggies, New Beginnings and Grace Falls. Other popular classics such as the All Mixed Up on Thatchtop Mountain have some avalanche danger but the greatest risk may be the severe postholing through the forest to the base of this route. Up to a meter of new and wind-deposited snow has landed in this and other similar lee locations which makes for great downhill skiing but difficult uphill travel.
Most trails will be very snow covered and especially in the 10-11k elevation range, new snow totals will likely be closer to a foot from today's storm which combined with the lee drifting that resulted from this week's windstorm, flotation will be necessary to travel to most locations in the high country. Lee loaded areas like Jewel Lake could have many feet of loose snow blocking the approach and with our overall weak and faceted snowpack, postholing could be up to the waist in many spots.
An adult coyote obeying the rules at the Fern Lake winter trailhead in RMNP, Colorado
The final slope to Chasm Meadows on the approach to Martha had a CONSIDERABLE to HIGH danger again this last week due to severe wind loading, which means that human-caused slab avalanches are probable or likely and on the mountain project website I have listed some beta on how to reach Martha without crossing this potentially very dangerous slope:
The north face of Longs will likely be mostly bare ground after the hurricane winds of the last few days and could be in great shape by this upcoming Sunday. For the most up-to-date avalanche forecasts and accident reports for the entire state of Colorado, please consult the Colorado Avalanche Information Center website for daily updated reports
Please contact me at
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if you would like to discuss training in ice or mixed climbing, avalanche education, or any type of rock climbing, ski mountaineering or guide training programs.
Routes are sorted by current Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 3+ |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 3- |
|
|
|
|
IN
(bit stepped-out) |
IN
(sublimating) |
IN |
MODERATE Avalanche Danger
WI 3-5 |
WI 5 |
WI 4 |
 |
|
|
IN
(at 3+ to 5) |
IN
(at 5+) |
IN |
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5
|
Black Lake Slabs
WI 2
|
 |
|
|
OUT
|
OUT |
IN
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
WI 3
|
WI 3
|
WI 2, M 1 |
|
|
|
IN
(great shape) |
IN
|
IN
(HIGH avi danger
on approach) |
|
Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
|
|
|
OUT
(usually July)
|
OUT
(usually June)
|
OUT |
Grace Falls
WI 3-4 |
|
|
IN
(growing) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
OUT
(due to high
avalanche danger)
|
OUT
|
OUT |
HIGH Avalanche Danger
The Window
WI 5, M4
|
Vanquished
WI 5, M4
|
Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
 |
 |
 |
OUT
|
OUT |
OUT |
WI 3+, M1 |
 |
OUT
(due to high avalanche danger) |
| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain on certain aspects (defined in accompanying statement). |
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges of lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs. |
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