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Ice Conditions - updated Dec. 29th |
Ice and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide and AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.
WARNING: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. Climbing Life and it's contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice climbing is very dangerous and one can easily kill themselves in this sport.
December 29th Conditions:
The wind has been a constant roar this last week in the high country of RMNP and it looks like tomorrow might be it's ultimate (for now) blast with peak wind speeds predicted to reach 100mph on the ridge crests and the sound could literally be deafening up there. Combined with single digit temperatures above 10,000', the only good news for the moment is that a respite is in sight, potentially as early as Monday and we can only keep our fingers crossed that this forecast comes true.
Kristie Arend sticking it to the Squid in Dec. 2007
A close-up of the crux section (WI5) of the Squid in a full-on blizzard
The avalanche danger throughout the high country has stayed CONSIDERABLE on the weakest cold ane lee aspects and steeper slopes where slab avalanche danger continues to be a lurking threat. The basal facets (depth hoar) are aggressively growing at the bottom of the mostly low-density and weak snowpack and this widespread large-grain layer at the bottom of the snowpack has been the failure layer in some recent slab avalanches in the Berthoud Pass and Cameron Pass areas that flank each side of Rocky Mountain National Park. This widespread basal faceting is especially prevalent on the north and east-facing slopes in the treeline and above range in the high country. Due the continued higher avalanche danger in certain locations, it would be worth considering using beacons, shovels, and probes as well as safer travel techniques while in avalanche terrain.
I will continue to state that the Squid is the best pure ice route in RMNP and although the grade has dropped down a bit as it's thickened to a sustained WI5 flow, this vertical sheet of ice could easily contain a left (ice) and right-hand (mixed) variations. This is one to enjoy over and over again while it is here. There is plenty of climbing in this 55 meter-long pitch which is still in prime shape.
Kristie Arend quickly cleaning the Squid in a mid-December blizzard
Sub-zero (Farenheit) temperatures above 10,000' at night have made for some brittle ice in locations but despite the arctic temperatures, the Hidden Falls is still pouring water down it's right side( and forming lots more ice) and other warmer locations such as Jaws in the Odessa Gorge can be soaking experiences if not prepared with a rain jacket.
The east face of Thatchtop Mountain on 12/27 showing the ice route All Mixed Up with the areas of CONSIDERABLE avalanche danger circled in red and the walk-off descent in yellow
We made attempts at climbing the classic All MIxed Up this week along with Martha on Mount Lady Washington, but deep snow drifts and ferocious winds combined with the cold kept us from making our intended objectives and instead we settled for more accessible and wind-protected locations such as the Loch Vale ice area and the ephemeral classic: Jaws. Popular areas like Hidden Falls have seen ebbs and flows of one day having only two people and the next, a dozen. This is a small area and usually more than 4-6 climbers in this spot will result in increased icefall danger and lots more sitting around waiting to climb, which is tough when it's this cold. Arriving early or late and only staying for part of the day can help with the congestion, or better yet, select a more out of the way location to have your own private ice day.
The currently growing hot spot: Jaws, with the four variations currently in shape on 12/31. An early or late start may be necessary to climb the more fragile pillars as the heat of mid-day might be problematic on these delicate features.
Best of luck in finding your own protected ice climbing niche this weekend or maybe rest-up for what looks to be a warmer and calmer spell of weather this next week that could bring some very favorable conditions for all of the high mountain activities. Please feel free to contact me at
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if you would like to discuss a private training program in ice or mixed climbing, avalanche education, or any of the climbing or ski mountaineering arts. This will be the start of my 19th year of full-time mountain guiding and teaching and I look forward to joining many of you in the hills this year.
Happy New Year and the best of luck in living your dreams in 2008!
Routes are sorted by current Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
Hidden Falls
WI 4 |
WI 3-5
M 1-8 |
Reflections
WI 3 |
|
|
|
|
IN
|
IN |
IN |
MODERATE Avalanche Danger
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5
|
Black Lake Slabs
WI 2
|
 |
|
|
OUT
|
OUT |
IN
|
WI 3
|
WI 3
|
WI 2, M 1 |
|
|
|
IN |
IN
|
Likely IN-
not confirmed |
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
|
Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
|
|
|
OUT (usually July)
|
OUT (usually June)
|
OUT |
Grace Falls
WI 3-4 |
|
|
IN |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
IN
4 out of 6 pitches IN
|
OUT
|
IN |
HIGH Avalanche Danger
The Window
WI 5, M4
|
Vanquished
WI 5, M4
|
Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
 |
 |
 |
OUT
|
OUT |
OUT but close |
WI 3+, M1 |
 |
OUT
(due to high avalanche danger) |
| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain on certain aspects (defined in accompanying statement). |
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges of lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs. |
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