Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley of Colorado.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

February 22nd, 2008     

It feels like spring is closer as temperatures at Bear Lake (9450')  in Rocky Mountain National Park hit the upper 30's F at these high elevations and with minimal cloud cover for a few days, these have been the warmest days of the year thus far for 2008.

                    The east face of McHenry's Peak (13,327') in the upper Glacier Gorge of RMNP on 2/15

Amazingly enough, the winds have also abated the last 48 hours on the Continental Divide following a stretch of three days where wind speeds were averaging 50mph at 11,000' with gusts of 70mph recorded just south of Longs Peak.    Last week's storm on 2/14 left us with a decent deposit of new snow (17cm at 11k) and in most locations at and above treeline, this surface layer was stripped and the morning of 2/19 when the clouds cleared, the north face of Longs Peak looked to be mostly rock with almost no snow showing on those precipitous flanks.

Yesterday (2/20)  at 10,000', new snow accumulations were approx. 1 inch but winds were low and it was a calm and patchy sky with soft snow to slide through as the sun set.  This morning looks to be clear and sunny for at least the morning hours, and this warmer temperature pattern that we are hopefully entering will be helpful for the strengthening of the snowpack on warmer (south and west) aspects in the high country. 

A snow pit profile of the upper  115 centimeters of the snowpack in the Trough Couloir on the west face of Longs Peak.  This windward facing slope is typically composed of very dense windslab layers but this recent profile showed that there are some weak layers in this typically rock-hard slab as well as some distinct strong over weak layering which could be problematic as more new snow loads these slopes.

Thus far in Rocky Mountain National Park this winter there has been minimal slab avalanche activity, and all that has been observed has been in the upper new snow layers during or following significant snowfalls in the high country.  That doesn't mean we have no avalanche danger as there are many slopes which have been inaccessible due to the harsh conditions we had from mid-December until mid-February this winter which have kept most folks away from so of the more potentially reactive avalanche terrain in the park. 

                    McHenry's and Arrowhead Peaks in the upper Glacier Gorge of RMNP on 2/15/08 

Please remember that the majority of our snow falls during the spring months of March, April, and May and this denser, heavier snow could be the source of many avalanches as it will be landing on a relatively weak snowpack in many locations and this"strong over weak" loading could have big consequences.  We'll wait and see what happens next.

Trails into the high country are in decent shape at the moment with the now "cruiser" trail to Black Lake following the drainage up from Jewel Lake.  Once off trail though, flotation will be necessary in most locations due to the relatively weak snowpack which will not support body weight where it is mostly faceted and  in these spots it is possible to get "face shots", the term referred to powder snow hitting the face while sliding, just from walking through this deep snowpack.

                     Arrowhead Peak which sits above the west shores of Black Lake in the Glacier Gorge

Late autumn and spring tend to be the best seasons for alpine ice and mixed routes in the alpine regions of RMNP, and the positive melt-freeze cycle that we are currently experiencing could start bringing some of these climbs into good shape.  The south and west facing aspects will see the first ice formation during this weather pattern and then later, the east and north-facing aspects will warm-up enough to have snow melt and ice formation occurring in some ideal locations.

The east face of Spearhead which is one of the finest chunks of granite in RMNP and holds many quality routes

Snow coverage in the high country of RMNP is now adequate enough to make for some high quality skiing conditions and no doubt, the east face of Flattop, the Emerald Lake slopes, and the steeper ridges on Hallett and the Glacier knobs will be busy with many backcountry skiers this weekend, out enjoying some fresh powder and maybe some sunshine as well.  Avalanche conditions can change quickly with new snow, wind, or temperatures above freezing, so remember to stay alert and not take anything for granted when making decisions involving travel in avalanche terrain.  Always consult the CAIC website for the latest updates on avalanche danger here in the Front Ranges and throughout the state of Colorado.

If you are interested in a training program in any or all of the climbing and skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of techniques practice and itineraries that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals. 

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!