Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

December 4th, 2007   

The wind has been constant in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park this last week as a series of storm systems made it's way through the Rockies on their way eastward.  New snow accumulations have been minimal despite all of this storm activity and Bear Lake at 9,400' in the park has received just 6 inches this last week.  Towards the Continental Divide, snowfall amounts have been a bit higher, but it is impossible to gauge the new accumulation at or above treeline as the wind has effectively moved most of this new snow to a different location from where it first hit ground.

                                A December 4th sunrise on the east faces of Longs Peak and Mount Meeker (R-L)

To my regular readers, I apologize for the gap in reports this last week.  My internet provider, Qwest has been making my life difficult and I could write a whole page worth of complaints regarding their service but I will stop here and spare you all the gory details.  For the remainder of this active winter season, expect an updated Conditions Report at the beginning of each week with an update before each weekend.

Despite the new snow, avalanche danger in most locations is remaining at a MODERATE or CONSIDERABLE level due to higher pockets of danger where lee loading has occurred and in these locations, there are sensitive slabs up to a foot thick on the surface that have formed in this recent weather event.  In some tree-line locations, there is over a meter of new snow accumulated that was deposited mostly by the wind and in these spots where there is sufficient angle, avalanche danger could reach HIGH levels due to the depth and sensitivity of these wind-deposited drifts.  The East Face of Notchtop has reached HIGH avalanche danger as a result of lee loading along with a terrain configuration that is unsupported by cliffs that also present a significant "terrain trap" in even a small sized slide.  Slabs in this terrain will very likely release naturally or with body weight and possibly the best indicator up here might be fresh crowns on all of the slopes above the ice on this route, which would indicate that much of the danger has released. 

                   Lars Lofgren near the top of the first pitch on All Mixed Up at 11,400' on Thatchtop Mountain

I climbed this weekend with Lars Lofgren of Evergreen and we enjoyed great ice conditions in the Loch Vale and on All Mixed Up, although Sunday's wind storm made life difficult up on the east face of Thatchtop Mountain.  Avalanche danger on AMU was in the MODERATE range although there were small spindrift avalanches coming down the route and potential unstable slopes at the very top of the route which can be managed with a rope and belay.  The ice on AMU had a hollow crust in a few spots but overall the route was in great shape and there is still growing ice on this face including on the route Organ Pipes as well as further right (north) on this wet and icy aspect.

                               The All Mixed Up wall on Thatchtop Mountain on December 2nd, 2007

Conditions on the trails below treeline have been mostly very firm with small drifts in spots that might require gaitors.  Off-trail travel is a mix of dry ground and soft snow up to waist deep in spots and so snowshoes may be required for travel in the most lee locations and to the more remote spots such as Black Lake or the Andrews Glacier where there has been minimal foot traffic due to unfavorable hiking conditions the last few weekends.

  At the half-way point on the approach to AMU on Dec. 2nd- if you see this guy with the pink boots, watch out!

Although the Thanksgiving week brought-on a severe cold-snap, the weather pattern for Rocky Mountain National Park has been overall warm and today, temperatures are again well above freezing at 9,000' and night-time lows have barely been dipping below freezing at this altitude for the last few days.  For the ice climbing, this has overall been a boon as routes like All Mixed Up, Hidden Falls and areas like the Loch Vale are growing and forming well this year.  Other warmer spots such as the route Jaws are too warm for ice and spots like the Squid are coming together (at WI 5+ condition) but could use some colder temperatures to bring it into "solid shape".  We climbed the Squid a couple of times last week in colder temp.'s and it gave a good soaking despite the high-tech fabrics.  It might be better to wait a little longer for another cold snap before making a visit to this ephemeral classic.

                                Getting some sticks and great protection on the Squid on Nov. 30th, 2007

It's been too windy for the higher altitude climbing in the park but as things settle down, the firm snow  of the "Trough Couloir" is coming into great shape for winter ascents of Longs.  The skiing is still in need of a lot more snow and less wind if there will be a hope of getting in some quality turns before the end of the year.  Although the Lambslide, Tyndall, and other glacier slopes are well snow covered, there is a lot of dry and rocky ground between these avalanche prone locations and the trailhead so much walking will be encountered along with enough rocks near the surface to inscribe a chapter into the base of any available skis.  Lakes are mostly frozen solid, especially the more shallow ones such as Mills Lake or higher locations such as Chasm Lake and are suitable for walking and ice skating.

                            Lars skimming the surface of Mills Lake in a ground blizzard on Dec. 2nd, 2007

We are due for some more storm activity later this week and hopefully some snow along with the wind (or ideally in place of ) but I won't start lamenting our lame snowpack as Lumpy Ridge is still dry and very climbable, especially on a 50 degree day such as today.  Hotspots would include the Crescent Wall and Gollums Arch area which get an abundance of sunshine and can be somewhat wind protected.

                                                         The Book at Lumpy Ridge on Nov. 29th, 2007

The sunrises and sunsets have been spectacular with all of the recent storm activity and it helps to find the beauty in the middle of all of this crazy wind.

                                                         Sunset over the Front Range on Dec. 3rd, 2007

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