Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

December 10th, 2007   

This last weekend brought our biggest snowfall of the season and although total amounts varied widely from east to west, the deepest accumulations we found were measured at 40cm on Saturday (from the previous 72hrs.) with an additional 8-10cm additional new snow on Sunday for a total new snowfall of close to 50cm ( 2 feet )in the best east-side of the divide locations in RMNP.  These maximum snowfall locations were in the 10,000' elevation range in the treeline region where a combination of wind-blown snow and new snowfall has created snowpack depths in the 1 meter range with more than half of this amount being from this last week's storm.

Dan Gottas doing atmospheric research on the south slopes of Otis Peak (12,486' ) above the Loch on December 8th.  On what had been bare ground earlier in the week, we found 40cm of new snow on this south-facing slope.  There was no slab formation at this time; unconsolidated, low density, faceted snow was piled deep on this grass and rock covered slope.

Due to this large deposit of new material on all aspects of the mountains of Rocky Mountain National Park, avalanche danger is rated HIGH, with the greatest danger currently in avalanche prone terrain such as the North Face, Loft, Keyhole, and Lambslide areas of Longs Peak and on the steeper slopes (greater than 35 degrees) on any above tree-line terrain, especially where there are unsupported slopes or terrain traps such as cliffs, thick forest, streams or boulders.  The east face of Notchtop also contains this HIGH avalanche danger and climbing on this route or nearby terrain should be judged critically before continuing forward.

                The Spearhead rising out of the Glacier Gorge into the coming storm on December 5th, 2007

Snowfall amounts are significantly less as one travels east of the Continental Divide and due to the mountain wave affect and other causative actions in the snow crystal formation process, the Bear Lake trailhead reported a gain of 14" (30cm) of new snow between Dec. 5th and 10th., approx. 60% of the totals gained just 1 mile and 500' higher to the west.  The wind started to move this new material on Sunday morning and night and the south face of Mount Meeker is already showing much bare ground as a result of these strong enough winds (20-30mph) that are moving over the mountains today to precede the next blast of moisture expected tonight.

              The southeast face of the Arrowhead catching the sun above Black Lake on December 5th, 2007

The wind-blasting that the high peaks had received continuously for the week preceding this big storm had scoured most of the snow up high off of most aspects above treeline and we observed a large, but likely old crown that spanned the width of the Andrews Glacier just below the top cornice and likely this large slope had loaded and released naturally during the windstorm that likely removed snow from the west-facing "catch" slopes on west side of the Divide and dumped enough of it into this high east-facing bowl to cause what looked to be larger than a meter high crown on a 1000' wide slope.  Any wind following this storm or in the days and weeks to come will have this same affect on lee slopes and the avalanche danger will be quickly rising when (no "if" to this equation) the westerly winds begin to transport the ample and easily moved, low-density snow.

                        The "West Gully" in the Glacier Gorge on December 5th, 2007 

The other HIGH danger zone for avalanches currently is in the "Treeline" elevation range where wind-loading has given us the deepest snowpack and due to the normal processes of faceting and slabbing, we have in many of these locations a very weak snowpack.  Tests and travel show that this snowpack is currently collapsing easily on a thin faceted layer just below a pencil hard slab that is about 6" thick and sitting on close to 8-10" of faceted grains we affectionately know as "depth hoar" or "basal facets".   Although our columns are collapsing easily when cut down to the depth hoar level, a shorter cut was giving us easy collapses on this non-depth hoar faceted layer just below the thin wind-formed slab.  Hiking into Black Lake on 12/5, we did experience "whumping" and some 30-50' diameter collapses on lower angle slopes in these similar treeline locations on primarily N, NE, E, SE and NW aspects in the 9,500'-10,500' elevation range where wind action had created this slab and lee loading has given us a substantial snowpack in a short amount of time.  No doubt, more new snow and loading will likely increase the likelihood of slab fractures in similar locations.

                               "The Squid" (WI5+) in the Tyndall Gorge of Rocky Mountain National Park

Although the skiing is not yet in form in the high peaks, the great news is that the ice climbing season has been in full swing for a month with the lower elevation ice areas such as the Loch Vale in great shape and the Hidden Falls (WI 4) now in good, leadable shape to the top.  My personal highlight of the last week was a couple of ascents of the ice climb  "The Squid", which I have been waiting many years to come into shape and although it is currently in a bit tougher form, I felt it was one of the better quality and most aesthetic ice climbs I have yet done here in RMNP or anywhere else.  Perhaps it is the rarity of this gem that made the experience so special.

                       The west face of Longs Peak reflecting the afternoon sunlight on Dec. 5th, 2007

Once the skiing is in full swing, the challenge will become, "what to do today" as the options for alpine, ice, rock,  and mixed climbing experiences are excellent during this frozen time of the year and with skiing as another diversion- what will we do?  Maybe ski in and do it all?  Or we can just sit back and put a keen eye and ear to nature in the hopes of seeing something special:  The babble of an ice-covered brook, the glint of a snow crystal freshly fallen, or the sound of the coyote howl are more than enough.

                                 Coyotes on the lookout in Rocky Mountain National Park on Dec. 9th

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