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August 27th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
"Endless Crack" (5.9) on the Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
August 27th Conditions Report
After a gorgeous week of almost perfect weather, the August 'monsoon rains' have returned to Rocky Mountain National Park and the Estes Valley as of today and it is a bit more Scottish at the moment with drizzle and temperatures in the 50's at 7500'. The Scottish-Irish festival does return to Estes Park soon so it is normal to begin the transition into autumn and already this last week we received our first snow covering of the season on the morning of Aug. 23rd. This heavy snowfall which blanketed the "Loft" between Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker, as well as the upper flanks of both of these peaks was a clear sign of our upcoming winter season.
Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker with new snow at sunrise on Aug. 23rd
The Diamond was soaked from the snowfall but by the end of the 24th almost all of the moisture had once again evaporated as a strong high pressure system gave us upper 80F temperatures at Lumpy Ridge which translates to mid-60's on the Diamond once the sun goes behind the peak in the early afternoon.
The Diamond Face of Longs Peak in the early morning
The Lower East Slabs of Longs were once again soaked due to this recent storm and although the Yellow Wall and steeper sections (except D1) are mostly dry, the slabs are a drain for all of this moisture and classic slab routes such as 'Stettner's Ledges', 'Directagonal'and 'Endless Summer' are going to be a bit wet in many spots.
The Lower East Slabs of Longs Peak after a recent storm
Jim Matt half-way up pitch 3 on the 'Casual Route' (10), Diamond, Longs Peak
The snowslopes and remnant glaciers are feeling the brunt of this monsoon moisture as well and with the rain further stripping off the little remaining snow, there is mostly black ice and loose debri covering these icy areas of the park. Until we receive a lot of new snow, potentially within the next month, these slopes would best be avoided for now.
This constant rockfall is also affecting some of the classic alpine routes such as 'Kieners' on Longs Peak and only the upper part of this route is safely accessible. The 'Stettner's Ledges' route on the Lower East Slabs can be accessed safely as it is out of the fall line of Lambslide's constant barrage although the black ice of the glacier will require crampons to easily ascend ice up to 45 degrees steep at the base of the route.
Lumpy Ridge is still in prime season and although it has been especially busy on the weekends, there is plenty of rock to accomodate everyone. And with the weather still this good up high, now is the time to get in those last sweet alpine rock days before they are done for the year.
The upper Book formation with a climber on 'Outlander' (10c) at Lumpy Ridge, RMNP
The multi-pitch classics at Lumpy such as 'Osirus' (8-), 'Melvin's Wheel' (8), 'Backflip' (9), 'Loose Ends' (9), 'Pear Buttress' (8), and 'J-Crack' (9), have been seeing the bulk of the action in the Book and Bookmark areas but there are dozens of more classics such as these spread out all over the Lumpy Ridge.
Forest McBrian sending the 'Backflip' on the Bookmark formation
Jimmy getting his party into 'Romulin Territory' (10) on the Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge
The sky's are predicted to clear for the rest of the week and it looks like another weekend of perfect weather ahead for all of those "weekend warriors" who need to wait until Friday rolls around for some play time. With the weather this good and the upcoming Labor Day holiday ahead, early starts may be helpful to get on your anticipated route first.
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