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August 20th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
Chasm Lake mid-day on August 16th, 2007
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
August 20th Conditions Report
After a bit of stormy weather the last couple of days, we are back under a solid high pressure system which is forecasted to bring upper 90 degree temperatures to Boulder. This heat wave down low translates into mid-80F temperatures in the high peaks so perfect temp.'s for alpine rock climbing and with little to no afternoon storms forecast this week, this is the ideal time to get some of those long-sought after alpine routes done.
South Arete of Notchtop Spire on August 14th, 2007
The Diamond drying out after a big storm on August 15th, 2007
The Casual Route on the Diamond Face of Longs Peak was a bit wet on Thursday the 16th when I climbed it with Jim Matt and we turned back a pitch from the top due to very slick conditions on the last pitch after doing many moves earlier on wet jams and slimy footholds. It should be drying out quick though and no doubt will be in prime shape again by mid-week.
Jim Matt on the 5.7 traverse of the "Casual Route" on August 16th, 2007
The Lambslide Couloir on August 16th, 2007
The glaciers and permanant snowfields have taken a big hit in the last week from a couple of severe rain storms that have stripped off almost all of the remaining winter snow. The torrential rains have left behind mostly black ice and loose gravel/rocks on these permanent ice fields and the sound of falling rocks (Retumbadero is a peak I've climbed in Chile which translates to "Falling Rock Mountain")is a sure sign to mountain traveller's that these are now places to be avoided. Avoided at least until they are very refrozen again and ideally covered with a fresh coating of snow which often happens as early as late September.
The Ptarmagin Glacier above Notchtop Spire is the most snow covered slope in the park and still a decent spot for cramponing.
The Ptarmagin Couloirs are a falling mess and should be avoided with clearance
Until then, the Lambslide and Y Couloirs as well as the Taylor, Ptarmagin, and Tyndall Glaciers should best be avoided. The other day on Notchtop, we witnessed a very large boulder dislodge from the southern most ice "finger" on the Ptarmagin headwall and bounce all the way down to the valley bottom 2000' below. Needless to say, a climbing helmet will not sufficiently protect one from this type of rockfall.
With that in mind, the recent death of NOLS regional director Pete Absolon in the Wind River Range from human caused rockfall should be a warning to all of us to be "heads-up" while under any other climbers and to belay in sheltered spots whenever possible and when we are above others, to tread very carefully as the cost of a human life is too great a price to pay for the careless result of a falling rock.
A reflection of Longs and Meeker in the calm waters of Lily Lake
Two recent accidents in Rocky Mountain National Park could have easily been avoided: A rappeller was severely injured taking a direct but very loose descent down from the Batman Pinnacle at Lumpy Ridge. This serious accident is a reminder that when large rocks are sitting in loose-looking gully's, that these are places to be avoided, especially when walk-off options exist to the east and west of this climb after the initial 50' rappel off of the summit. A few days later, a lucky boulderer was flown out of the west side of the park after a nearby hiker heard her cries for help- climbing alone on big rocks without a rope over large talus is a recipe for disaster, and a general rule for bouldering alone is "only above soft landings". Certainly letting a responsible person know where you're going, when you plan to return and who to contact if you don't is one of the fundamentals of wilderness travel as this system could very well save your life if necessary.
That said, be safe out there and best of luck in your adventures!
Dog day afternoon
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