Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley of Colorado.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

April 9th, 2008     

Winter weather has continued this week in the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park and new snow amounts at Bear Lake (9450') have totaled nearly 1 foot in the last five days with double that amount landing just a few miles to the west.  Avalanche danger continues to stay in the Moderate to Considerable range (human triggered avalanches likely) due to these relatively high accumulations and strong enough winds to transport much of this new snow onto lee slopes, particularly the northeast through east through southeast aspects.   The very warm weather predicted to return this upcoming weekend will likely be a trigger for many large, loose-snow avalanches, particularly on slopes that have some south aspect to them.  South-East facing slopes (120-180 degree bearings) will be the spots where the avalanche activity will likely be highest and these will be in the D2 size category which are big enough to bury or kill a person.  Early starts or avoidance of this terrain when the sun is beating down would be prudent.

                       Throwing up some spring powder in the Terrain Park on "The Leftist" ski descent.

Temperatures at Bear Lake have been exceeding the freezing mark for much of this week which is helpful for the stabilization of the mid and lower snowpack.  New snowfall amounts which are more than a foot at Bear Lake will present serious surface instability issues for at least the next week to come.

The melt-freeze cycle is in full swing in the high country and this weekend's forecast temperatures which could approach the mid-40's at Bear Lake will feed the formation of ice growth on the higher alpine walls and quickly tear-down what is left of the south-facing ice routes such as The Squid in the Tyndall Gorge.  Routes like The Window on Longs Peak and Vanquished on Powell Peak could be forming well in these conditions.  The best way to find out what's happening up there is to take the tools for a walk and hope for the best. 

                Sliding through some ideal snow conditions in the Tyndall Gorge of RMNP

Lumpy Ridge or any of the other nearby cragging areas in the Estes Valley could be good back-up alternatives if the ice isn't there at the moment.  Lots of rock gear including pitons are usually very helpful on these alpine mixed routes and even if the ice is barely there, scratching around on snow and rock can make for a great day in the peaks.  As longtime Estes local Greg Sievers recently found on Powell Peak, there is still great potential for first ascents in the high county of RMNP.  All that's needed is some creative thinking and a willingness to get out there and do it (and a bit of experience and skill). 

                                     The Tyndall Gorge and Dragontail Couloir under a cloak of spring white

The hurricane force winds that almost continually rake the high country of RMNP in the winter season have not yet loosened their grip on the peaks and wind speeds this week at the Niwot Ridge weather station just south of Longs Peak show that you have to pick your days well to avoid being another hurricane victim.   The westerly winds have continued to blast the west aspect of Longs Peak and once again this huge granite slope is mostly devoid of snow except for in the deeper nooks and crannies where some thin strips hide:  the Trough Couloir is the best known example.

       The average wind speed graph for the last week from the Niwot Ridge Meteorological Station 

Spring is the prime time for couloir climbing and skiing and the parking lot at Bear Lake has been seeing lots of skier (and hundreds of snowshoe) action on recent weekends.  The great news is that there is so much terrain in RMNP, that one can easily have an entire slope if not valley to themselves and there are many excellent nooks and crannies to explore.    

                         Dropping into the south-facing Corral Couloir in great spring conditions

Avalanche danger is currently CONSIDERABLE at treeline and alpine elevations, especially on north through east aspects where wind loading combined with significant new snow has potentially created slabs and where steeper angles and a poor bond with the recent snow surface have created pockets of this higher danger.  On all other slopes at and below treeline, the current avalanche danger for the east side of RMNP is MODERATE.  More new snow is forecast for tomorrow and especially combined with wind could create even more avalanche danger in these same locations.

Trails have been getting covered with new snow constantly for the last few days and with the warmer weather, creeks and lakes are starting to appear where the ice is thinner or melted away.  With warm days, Lumpy Ridge can be very pleasant this time of year and we have already seen the hatch of the ticks up here at 9,000 while bouldering around the house so medicate your pets and check your self for these vile and disease carrying beasts.

An obvious avalanche path just below Granite Pass on east flank of the Boulderfield of Longs Peak.  Likely only HIGH or EXTREME danger ratings would likely see this slope release for its entire breadth.  Other less-obvious avalanche paths such as the Lambslide Couloir or the Loft may only slide with the addition of a human-trigger or significant new snow.

Routes such as Dreamweaver on Mount Meeker typically form as an ice and snow climb by May and snow conditions on the east face of Longs could take even longer to become stable enough.  Although other parts of the state may have received "above normal" snowfall this season, RMNP is still just about "normal" and there is not significantly more snow or snow-related danger than normal for this time of year.  Only the droughts of the last decade have given many of us "new locals" the idea that this is a particularly big snow year.  Prior to this recent "dry spell", the high country of RMNP was a very snowy place in the winter and spring and long enough ago- snowy and cold enough to grow miles-long glaciers that were thousands of feet thick.  If anything, we could easily lose our most cherished "permanent ice slopes" i.e. Tyndall, Ptarmagin, Taylor, Andrews and Mills glaciers in the next few years?

Avalanche danger can change quickly with new snow, wind, or temperatures above freezing, so remember to stay alert and not take anything for granted when making decisions involving travel in and around avalanche terrain.  Always consult the CAIC website for the latest updates on avalanche danger here in the Front Ranges and throughout the state of Colorado.

If you are interested in a training program in any or all of the climbing and skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of techniques practice and itineraries that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals. 

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!