Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley of Colorado.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

April 20th, 2008     

Snow hit the Front Range and Continental Divide peaks hard on Wednesday the 16th of April with the town of Estes Park receiving up to 6 inches of fresh  white flakes and the eastern side of the Divide at 11-14,000' accumulated up to a foot of powder.  Avalanche danger was higher in the middle of last  week due to the new snow and subsequent wind and this pattern could continue for a month so don't pack away the beacons and shovels yet.   Warmer days and cold-enough nights are the prevalent trend and so the snowpack will be gaining strength during this weather pattern.  This strengthening process that involves the sintering and rounding of the snow grains will lead to an eventual isothermic snowpack where the highest stability concern will  be primarily in the surface layers that are most susceptible to heat or the additional snow we are likely to receive in the coming weeks. 

                       Longs Peak and Mount Meeker (R-L) catching some early morning light on April 18th

As of: Sat Apr 19 21:50:27 PDT 2008)

Temperatures at Bear Lake have been exceeding the freezing mark for more than half of  the previous week which is helpful for the stabilization of the mid and lower snowpack. Surface sluffing is more likely now that temperatures are well above freezing during the day, especially on the warmer south and west aspects where there will be considerable danger by mid-afternoon (1pm- 5pm) on slopes that average more than 30 degrees in angle.

With another foot of powder in the peaks this week, the skiing has been off-the-charts in the high country of RMNP and no doubt many backcountry enthusiasts have been taking advantage of the strong sunshine and lack of lift lines (or people) in Rocky Mountain National Park.

                     Sliding through some soft snow conditions in the Chaos Canyon of RMNP

Lumpy Ridge was in ideal condition on Saturday the 19th of April with only light winds and strong sunshin.  There were more than a dozen parties on The Book formation although all were on different routes so it was not too crowded for such a beautiful day.  Unfortunately, Saturday appears to have been a lull in an otherwise windy week in the high peaks and down in the Estes Valley where the Lumpy Ridge resides.

                       The amazing Sundance Buttress on Lumpy Ridge with Mt. Ypsilon just 6 miles to the east.

With lower winds this weekend and the potential for a week-long stretch of warm and calmer weather, the snowpack will be changing quickly.  Danger will increase when temperatures are above freezing and the sun is shining, especially on south facing slopes.  Clear nights will permit the exchange of energy and the snowpack will start to gain strength on the alpine and ski routes, but for the moment snowshoes or skis will be necessary to keep from sinking deep into the mostly weak snowpack. 

           The Cathedral Spires in the foreground with the east face of Taylor Peak getting some afternoon sun. 

Spring is the prime time for couloir climbing and skiing and the parking lot at Bear Lake has been seeing lots of skier (and hundreds of snowshoe) action on recent weekends with the Dragontail and Corral Couloirs being the most popular for descents into the Tyndall Gorge.  The great news is that there is so much terrain in RMNP, that one can easily have an entire slope if not valley to themselves and there are many excellent nooks and crannies to explore.    Cornices are beginning to be a threat as the warm air and extra weight of the new snow can conspire to bring many of these beasts tumbling down the slopes at their feet and so travel techniques and group management that work to mitigate this danger would be appropriate.

              Digging into the top of the south-facing Corral Couloir to check the slab-bonding characteristics.

Avalanche danger is currently MODERATE (see bottom of page) at treeline and alpine elevations, especially on north through east aspects where wind loading combined with significant new snow has potentially created slabs and where steeper angles and a poor bond with the recent snow surface have created pockets of this higher danger.  On all other slopes at and below treeline, the current avalanche danger for the east side of RMNP is LOW. 

Lumpy Ridge was very pleasant for climbing the last few weekends although the winds have at times made it difficult to reach the top of the higher formations.  The strong, high-altitude sun and sheltered cliff bases are much warmer of not already hot and there are many single-pitch options along the base of these big cliffs.   We have already seen the hatch of the ticks up here at 9,000 so be sure to medicate your pets and check yourself for these vile and disease carrying beasts.  Tick season usually lasts about a month and so hopefully the end is near for this year's season.

The Twin Owls soaking up the morning light on April 14th, 2008.  This cliff is closed for raptor nesting until late July.

     Catching some rays on the pumpy and delicate, Wigglin' Fingies on the Bookmark.

The alpine snow and mixed routes are slowly coming into good climbing shape with deep, unconsolidated snow at the moment making most of them more of a wallow than a classic climb.  Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker usually forms as a firm snow and ice climb by mid-May and Kieners is typically "opened" by this time of year also as the loose snow of winter begins to consolidate to provide good cramponing conditions in the Lambslide Couloir and across the Broadway Ledges traverse.   Other classic alpine routes on the east face of Taylor Peak, the east face of Mt. Ypsilon and on the Ptarmagin Fingers on Flattop Mountain may be a month-out from being in prime shape.  I will be teaching an AMGA alpine guides course this next week and so will publish an update of what we find before this upcoming weekend.

    Snowdrifts on the Bookmark descent and at the base of the left side of the Book Formation on April 19th.

I was out of town this last week while visiting family in England and so the conditions updates have been spread out as a result.  I will be teaching and leading mixed climbs in the alpine zone in RMNP for most of the next two months before rock season becomes the predominant activity, so look forward to more updates and information on current route conditions for the Longs Peak cirque, the Glacier Gorge, and the other main climbing valleys on the east side of RMNP.  Thanks to all of you who have patiently been waiting for more information on the conditions of the many classic alpine routes in RMNP - this has been a late developing season due to our longer lasting winter this year.

            In the middle of the upper crux on the classic Backflip on the Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado

Avalanche danger can change quickly with new snow, wind, or temperatures above freezing, so remember to stay alert and not take anything for granted when making decisions involving travel in and around avalanche terrain.  Always consult the CAIC website for the latest updates on avalanche danger here in the Front Ranges and throughout the state of Colorado.

The elk have been busy all around the Estes Valley nibbling on the fresh grass shoots that are popping up as spring develops in the high country

If you are interested in a training program in any or all of the climbing and skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of techniques practice and itineraries that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals.   I will be coaching climbers and leading routes throughout Rocky Mountain National Park with the Colorado Mountain School this spring and summer until heading to Nepal in October to lead a CMS expedition up the classic peaks of Lobuche and Ama Dablam in the Khumbu Region of this Himalayan Kingdom.

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!

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