The Peak District National Park is the oldest in England and contains the wealth of Gritstone cliffs, aka "The Edges" which include Stannage; the longest of these escarpments and just 20 miles west of the bustling city of Sheffield.  Yorkshire Dale National Park starts 50 miles north of Sheffield and here sits the great English limestone crag of Malham Cove and the scenic canyon of the Gordale Scar.

Stannage (above) in the early morning light on an April day that could have been in Colorado.  Bright sunshine, snow, rain, wind and heat all made for a topsy-turvy weather experience.  This is the longest band of gritstone in the peak district and contains the most routes, of which half are in the 5.4-5.9 range involving very protectable and classic cracks. 

This is what all the fuss is about?  For a rocky island, England actually has very few big cliffs and although Stannage is large in its horizontal dimension, it is surprisingly short on the vertical side.  Most rock gyms would equal or exceed the 35' average cliff height but this is a sacred place to English climbers and I would likely be assaulted for dismissing, in any way, one of England's greatest and most historic climbing areas just because it has a height issue.  Quality over quantity, right?

In two trips to the Peak District, I've been snowed and rained on for most of my days there and although the alpine conditions may have turned me off somewhat to the experience, many of the locals don't seem to notice the windy sleet and seemed very content to be out on the moors in "full conditions"  - it is great training for Patagonia. The beer does taste even better after a day of cragging in frigid conditions and of the four routes I've climbed at Stannage, I'd have to say that the diverse movement and rock quality on gritstone are some of the best I've experienced.  And yes, the green stuff on the rock is wet moss.

A couple of blokes enduring Patagonian conditions while training at Stannage.  Only 124 more laps up this wall will give them a decent training simulation for Fitzroy.  Why does Britain produce so many great rock and mountain climbers?  Because France is so close!  A big rack and long rope are not as necessary here as an umbrella and much desire.  The white streaks in the photo (above) are sleet on their descent.

Yes, you read this clearly:  20 pounds U.K. for 18.7 liters of gasoline.   At the current exchange rate, this comes out to approx. 40$ U.S. for 4.7 gallons of gas or about $8.50 a gallon.   Needless to say, we limited our driving time on this recent trip in April '08 as there's plenty to explore in these two nearby National Parks.

With the size of many of the country roads in England, a large gas-guzzling car wouldn't fit down all of the backroads and there are too many stone walls to attempt a cross-country in the Hummer if you just happened to bring one.

It is worth the drive to a country pub where good food, libations, and a friendly place to warm the hands are available.  The Buck Inn pictured here in the village of Malham is one of a few good pubs in this very small town.  You have to drive 20 miles for a grocery store from here but there are three pubs within a stone's throw.  Who's complaining?

The walk to Malham Cove from town is an easy stroll down a country lane to an impressive looking band of limestone that contains a significant number of the most highly prized limestone sport climbing routes in England.  Malham faces south and is overhung enough that only in the worst weather is it unclimbable.   Of course they receive some of the wettest weather here and so it does help to have a touch of sun to make for a more pleasant experience.

An Irish climber makes short work of the redpoint on a spectacular 5.12 route up the center of the Malham Ampitheatre.  There are two main tiers to this cliff and the lower one contains the bulk of the steepest and longest lines.  Foot and hand-polished limestone that was carved out by a waterfall can make for a slopey and crimpy climbing experience and there are only a handful of routes here under 5.11; all  of the "moderates" are on the outside edges of the upper tier.

"Warming up" on one of the easiest lines on the lower tier at Malham; only an 11d!  These are short routes, around 40' to 60' in length unless you are ready to climb hard 5.13 and bust-out the overhangs which block access to the upper half of this lower wall.  The rock here was grippy, the bolts solid and well-spaced, and the moves powerful but positive- good stuff and well worth a visit while in northern England.

The countryside of the Yorkshire Dale National Park is covered with limestone cliffs and the many rocks which have been plucked out of the ground to make stone fences and more grassland for the sheep that have been a livelihood here for countless generations.  Many 500 year old buildings are still inhabited and thousand-year-old churches and castles dot the landscape of this history filled Kingdom.

The Gordale Scar is the impressive canyon which sits just a mile east of the Malham Cove and in this sheer cleft one can find the solace of a rushing stream and the shady cliffs which are a respite during the hot and steamy summer weather.

This compact canyon of the Gordale Scar contains dozens of sport and mixed rock routes up its steep sides which often tuck into natural cave belays in this pocketed limestone.  The "easiest" routes are 5.10 and most are in the upper ranges.  The Scar is a popular walking destination so expect hundreds of hikers during good weather and likely lots of questions about why one would be stupid enough to risk their neck by climbing off the ground.    Aye lad, are you mad? 

A mad lad trying out the opening sequence of one of the best looking routes in this very peaceful and energy-charged canyon.

      The young Finley Helmuth cleaning up his act before entering a favorite pub in Malham village.