Sykes' Sickle was first ascended by the team of Dave Rearick, Richard Sykes, John Wharton and David Isles in 1958, yet it was the onsight first free ascent of this magnificent line by Royal Robbins and local Steve Komito in 1964 that brought this now "uber classic" climb into the limelight.  Even today, many alpine rock climbers look up at the "Sickle" with some trepidation due to it's imposing nature and status as a "moderate testpiece" on the steep, east face of Spearhead.

Spearhead, Sykes Sickle

III+ 5.9+

The "Sykes' Sickle on the east face of Spearhead is one of the highest quality 5.9 alpine rock routes in Rocky Mountain National Park and arguably in the United States.  It can be done in 7 long pitches to reach the summit of Spearhead (12,575') and with a walk/scramble descent back to the base, it is a very conducive route for the "light is right" philosophy of alpine climbing.

           Sunrise on the east face of Spearhead with the "Sickle" looming above in the sun.

Location 

The approach to Black Lake and the Spearhead starts at the Glacier Gorge treailhead at 9300' in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Follow the signs to Black Lake which is approx. 6 miles from the trailhead and a very early start is recommended to get up and back from this climb in a long day.  A bivy nearby the base of the east face can be done with a permit from the RMNP backcountry office and a few excellent "boulder bivy's'" are available only 15 minutes below the base of the east face.

From Black Lake follow a well-established climbers trail up the low-angle gulley to the left (east) of the lake and then look for cairns which will make the final bit of the approach through the beautiful granite plateau a bit easier.  Allow approx. 3 hours for the approach to the base of the face and walk quickly if possible!

Route Information

P1- 60m  Start in the obvious left-facing corner which is part of "the Door" flake that is split on the right side by a very clean 8" wide crack.  At first a bit dirty and loose due to it's proximity to the ground and sometimes covered by snow in early season, this rope-stretcher pitch takes one up the eventually arching corner to a notch in the left-side of the small ceiling.  5.8

P2- 45m  Head straight up out of the belay to reach a large ledge which connects with a left trending ramp system that contains a few boulder problem cruxes to reach a nice ledge just before some loose-looking and clean flakes near the apex of this ramp.  (5.7)

P3- 60m  Another rope stretcher of a pitch starting off the big ledge takes one up and right to a nice stance at the bottom of the "Sickle Dihedral".  This pitch is difficult to read and I have done a couple of minor variations in linking up the somewhat loose flakey features of this pitch.  The start is very run-out and overall this is the most exciting and lowest quality of the pitches on the climb and one which should be ascended very carefully with open eyes for the routefinding challenges.  (5.8 runout) 

                 Looking down on the 3rd pitch with another team at the top of the 2nd pitch.

P4- 50m  The rock quality improves dramatically now as well as the difficulty while following a shallow dihedral system mostly straight-up through a small overhang on good holds then in thin cracks heading left when possible to reach a nice ledge where there is a slung-horn rappel anchor. (5.9)

                             Eli near the top of the 4th pitch.  Photo courtesy of Jim Matt

P5- 50m Climb a left-trending crack system out of the belay and then make some tricky moves to reach a shallow  right-facing off-width which is just right of the very large and obvious right-facing corner system which forms the bottom of the "Sickle".  A very interesting move right out of the off-width on knobs takes one into a steep left-facing flake system which is luckily quite juggy and when it offers small ledges should be traversed far-right then up to a nice belay stance at the base of the Sickle Chimney.  (5.9)

               Jim Matt near  the Sickle Chimney belay after cranking the difficulties on pitch 5.

P6- 60m  This is the "business pitch" and the one that often brings dread to the leader.  Getting up to the chimney is the overlooked crux though and it almost warrants a 5.10 rating but with good footwork out left and plenty of options for great gear in the cracks on the right wall, it is reasonable enough.  Once in the chimney, the transition from facing right to left can be a bit of a trick then with a #3 camalot above, reach big for the jug ledge.  Clipping the old bolt here will help keep the rope from jamming in the crack.  One can stop nearby here or continue of the still strenuous hand crack to some large boulders jammed in the crack.  Standing on top of these boulders is the start of the traverse right to the elusive one bolt on the route which is in the middle of the slab, just as it begins to get a bit thin.  Belay in a small left-facing dihedral at the end of the slab.

Eli with the jug ledge in hand, getting ready to grab his pack off the #3 camalot.  Photo courtesy of Jim Matt.

                      Jim Matt in the middle of the slab traverse near the end of pitch 6.

P7- 40m Climb straight-up out of the belay and choose from a couple of splitter clean cracks which take one to a large ledge just a short distance below the summit and right next to the start of the ledge system which is the "southeast" descent route.  (5.7)

Descent

There are two common descent methods for getting off of Spearhead.  Either way involves a bit of routefinding and scrambling on loose terrain- be careful! Scrambling to the west and south is the standard "easy" route up Spearhead but a bit circuitous if your gear is left at the base of the route. 

The Southeast descent route is pretty casual when dry and by following the obvious ledge left (south) from the top of P7, keep an eye open for cairns and if done correctly, the difficulties should never be more than a bit of exposed 3rd class downclimbing.

Warning:  Ravens and marmots conspire in this cirque to eat all of your food, pack contents, and approach shoes if allowed.  Either carrying everything up the route with you or hanging packs upside down well off the ground and super-sealed may keep the beasts at bay. 

Equipment

A standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot and at least one #3 should be sufficient.  At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful.  One single 60 meter rope will get you up the long pitches if done as described.  Otherwise a second rope, preferrably a "tag-line" would be ideal for rappelling in the event of a retreat due to storms or injury.  There is very little fixed gear or anchors on this route so plan on leaving behind slings and protection if a rappel descent becomes necessary.

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