The North Ridge of Spearhead is not included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America anthology, but it is one of the most ascended routes in Rocky Mountain National Park for good reason:  It is a classic.  Overall great rock (some loose pieces), scenic views, mostly moderate cracks, slabs, and chimneys all culminate in an exposed headwall to make for an outstanding climbing experience.   Spearhead sits in a more remote location (for RMNP) in the upper reaches of the Glacial Gorge, directly below the west face of Longs Peak in one of the most scenic valleys in the lower 48 states.

Spearhead, North Ridge

III 5.6

The North Ridge of Spearhead is one of the highest quality 5.6 alpine rock routes in Rocky Mountain National Park and arguably in the United States.  It can be done in 6-7 long pitches to reach the summit of Spearhead (12,575') and with a walk/scramble descent back to the base, it is a very conducive route for the "light is right" philosophy of alpine climbing.

Location 

The approach to Black Lake and the Spearhead starts at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 9300' in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Follow the signs to Black Lake which is approx. 6 miles from the trailhead and a very early start is recommended to get up and back from this climb in a long day.  A bivy nearby the base of the east face can be done with a permit from the RMNP backcountry office and a few excellent "boulder bivy's'" are available only 15 minutes below the base of the east face.

From Black Lake follow a well-established climbers trail up the low-angle gulley to the left (east) of the lake and then look for cairns which will make the final bit of the approach through the beautiful granite plateau (and scrub willows) a bit easier.  Allow approx. 3 hours for the approach to the base of the north ridge and walk quickly if possible!

Route Information

P1- 55m  Start on a grassy ledge at the very base of the North Ridge below a lower angle slab that connects with two obvious chimneys above.   Climb delicately up the barely protected slab to the left-most of the two chimneys which initially tops-out on a decent ledge on the left with an easy crack on the right for anchoring. (5.6)

P2- 60m  Head right from the belay up steeper thin cracks which lead to a slab that can be traversed to the right to join the obvious chimney systems which continue with ledgey breaks up to the base of the final chimney before the central slabs.  (5.6+)

P3- 60m  Another rope stretcher of a pitch starting off the big ledge below the final chimney.  Staying on the left-hand wall of the chimney is easiest (5.6) then follow an almost 3rd class chimney/crack/slab directly up until near the end of the rope, then cut left to a stance with numerous small to medium cracks. (5.6)

P4- 50m  The rock quality improves dramatically as does the style of climbing and these are the pitches you hiked all this way for.  Continuous crack systems with grass between the jams makes for a truly alpine rock pitch.  Numerous belay stances and some loose blocks are passed.

P5- 35m Climb a left-trending shallow corner/ crack system out of the belay and follow this up to a short slab move which connects with the moderate but steeper crack trending back right with a traverse right to the final large ledge  below the last pitch that heads diagonally up and left. (5.6+)

P5 (optional) -35m  Follow the direct-up crack system to the "piano death flake" which is a large, barely wedged block that separates the two options on either side.  The right-option goes at 5.7 and is the easiest and best protected escape if you've missed the earlier left-hand turn.  The final pitch to the top from this belay is also a steep 5.7 handcrack. (5.7)

OR The left-option (of the direct finish) follows the left-leaning off-width that involves some tricky exit moves on slightly run-out climbing.  An equally poorly protected section with reasonable moves (5.7+) just to the below left of the splitter finger crack bring one to the small ledge at the base of this "headwall" splitter.   Small cams or nuts protect the very thin crack (5.8) for 3m to a large ledge with many solid cracks for anchoring. (5.8)

P6- 35m Step left out of the belay ledge to a left-leaning slab with a crack up the middle that continues towards the left edge of the face to finish in a dramatic slot with a thin crack in the back that requires some crux wiggling to reach the flat finish of the route. (5.6)

Descent

There are two common descent methods for getting off of Spearhead.  Either way involves a bit of routefinding and scrambling on loose terrain- be careful! Scrambling to the west and south is the standard "easy" route up Spearhead but a bit circuitous. 

The southeast descent route is fairly casual when dry and by following the obvious ledge system (climbers left -south) from the notch just 50' above the finish to the North Ridge, keep an eye open for cairns and if done correctly, the difficulties should never be more than a bit of exposed 3rd/4th class downclimbing.

Warning:  Ravens and marmots conspire in this cirque to eat all of your food, pack contents, and approach shoes if allowed.  Either carrying everything up the route with you or hanging packs upside down well off the ground and super-sealed may keep the beasts at bay. 

Equipment 

A standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot with at least one #3 should be sufficient.  At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful.  One single 60 meter rope will get you up the long pitches if done as described.  Otherwise a second rope,  preferably  a "tag-line" would be ideal for rappelling in the event of a retreat due to storms or injury.  There is very little if any fixed gear or anchors on this route so plan on leaving behind slings and protection if a rappel descent becomes necessary.

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