The south face of the Petit Grepon is one of the all-time classic alpine rock routes in North America due to the quality of the climbing and the suberb position and exposure of this amazing spire. 

Petit Grepon, South Face

III+  5.8 

The south face of the Petit Grepon, aka "the normal route" is one of the all-time classic alpine rock routes of North America and one of the most popular routes in Rocky Mountain National Park.  As a result, the number of climbers on this route, especially on a summer weekend can be a bit much, and so a weekday and/or early season ascent is recommended to beat the crowds.

The approach to the Saber past the Loch and Skypond is the Petit Grepon approach.

Location  - Lat/Lon: 40.28050°N / 105.670°W

The total approach hike from the Glacier Gorge trailhead (9200') to the base of the Petit Grepon (11,300') is a solid 2000' of elevation gain and with approximately 3.5 miles of uphill walking on the approach, this is a somewhat more remote location in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Expect this hike to take at least 2.5 hrs. from the trailhead to base if not more.

After following the initial trail west out of the parking lot for .3 miles, at the second trail junction turn south towards Mills Lake and the Loch Vale (right goes up to Bear Lake), but after 1/4 mile and the second bridge crossing, look for a large rock slab on the right of the trail at the eastern end starts the "fire trail", which is an old, unmaintained trail that cuts almost a mile off the next stretch of walking.  After a mile, where the fire trail meets the main trail again, head west and from the trail junction to Mills Lake (Glacier Gorge) or Haiyaha (Chaos Canyon), stay west on the trail to the Loch Vale for an uphill 1/2 mile to the water's edge, then follow the north shore and inlet streams for 3/4 mile until two consecutive log crossings mark the turn-off to the Andrews Glacier. 

Sunrise over the Loch Vale.

 

Stay on the main trail in the valley bottom until after a 1/4 mile you approach the Cathedral Wall and the trail goes uphill, often through snow past the Timberline Falls to the Glass Lake.  Staying right (north) of this first lake, the trail winds through dense trees and some small ciffs to gain a meadow which leads up to the eastern shores of Skypond lake.  From Skypond, stay low to gain trails up the scree slopes directly below the Petit.

Route Information

P1- 60m  Starting from the far left side of the face on a big flat ledge, heading straight-up then left off the right side of the starting ledge brings one to an easier left facing and grassy corner system after 100' and then the first "big" ledge system after a full rope length.  (5.6)

P2- 40m  Walk across the big first ledge system to the obvious huge chimney/cleft which is ascended until a crack/ramp on the left wall allows one to crank up and left some more to a bit of an arete next to the chimney which is followed up to the base of the obvious wide, left-slanting crack which provides one of the first cruxes (5.7)

P3- 50m   Head-up the steep slanting crack using a #3 camalot for protection and where the crack straightens out, stemming and jamming to a slick move onto a ledge.  Keep climbing straight-up onto the second "big ledge" and anchor at the base of the headwall. (5.8)

South faces of the Petit Grepon and Saber.

P4- 50m  Follow an obvious chimney/cleft up and when difficulties arise, to the left, then eventually slanting back right up to a ramp/ledge which has a perfect .3/.4 camalot crack  at it's right end. (5.7)

Following steep crack systems in the middle of the fourth pitch.

P5- 50m  Climb straight-up out of the belay on tricky moves (5.9) or move a few steps right and ascend an easier but unprotected face up and right (5.7) for a few moves to reach a small ledge, step left back into the splitter hand and finger crack in a small right-facing vertical dihedral then becomes a left-facing shallow corner and a few more tough moves with good pro deposit one one on the first small ledge- head up a bit higher to the very large "big ledge" above which is more on the east face of the spire and directly below the final two pitches to the top.  (5.8)

P6- 55m  Straight up off the big ledge into a little dihedral which is stemmed and then heading up and right to intersect after 160' with the bottom right corner of the "Pizza Pan" flake which can be sent on either the right, middle, or left sides via steep ground- A belay on-top of the flake or behind works best.

P7- 55m  Step-right off the top of the "Pizza Pan" flake after slipping a shoulder-length sling behind the fixed hex and clip more than a few old stuck cams (and try not to lose your own) as you take the path of least reistance up flakes and cracks to the crest of the spire just 30' right of the skyline edge.  Follow the ridge up for another 70' to reach a flat stance on the spire summit, south end. 

Stemming through the first 5.8 crux pitch.

Descent

There are two common descent methods for getting off of the Petit.  Both involve rappelling: The descent with fewer rappels but requiring all gear to be taken "up and over" goes down to the Andrews creek drainage the opposite way from the base of the Petit.  Otherwise, with two full ropes or a single lead line and a full-length "tag-line", usually 6-7mm diameter, allows one to make 6 rappels down the south face,  just to the climbers right of the route.

Either descent requires a rappel off the summit tower from two new FIXE hangers- the Sharkstooth descent stops early at a slung horn anchor on the north end after just 50' down.  This anchor is used to go directly below the notch on Sharkstooth and can be done in 100' from this anchor- knot the end of your ropes!

For the rappel descent of the south face- which can also be used for retreat near the top of pitches: 1, 3,  and 5.

1. Off the north end of the summit, 165' down and skier's right to a small ledge with 2 bolts.

2. 130' down and skier's right to a bigger dirt ledge with another two-bolt anchor. 

3. 100' down to the BIG ledge which sits just below the other highest "BIG" ledge that is the top of P5 in this description. 

4.  Walk across the 15' wide grassy ledge to it's south end and locate two new bolts with square hangers- a 165' rappel starting in a chimney (watch the loose rock) will get you down to the next BIG ledge below (top of pitch 3).  Carefully scramble down to a 5' boulder near the edge with slings around it.  Clip-in to the slings and carefully downclimb to the two bolts just below the boulder- have your partner feed the rope down to you off the big ledge.

5.  Rappel a full  200' straight down to another huge grassy ledge (top of pitch 1) and scramble down and skier's left to the last two-bolt anchor at the east end of that ledge.

6.  The final full 190' rappel to the tierra firma.

Warning:  Ravens and marmots conspire in this cirque to eat all of your food, pack contents, and approach shoes if allowed.  Either carrying everything up the route with you or hanging packs upside down well off the ground and super-sealed may keep the beasts at bay. 

Equipment

A standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot and at least one #3 should be sufficient.  At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful.  One single 60 meter rope will get you down via the Sharkstooth/Petit col, otherwise a second rope, preferrably a "tag-line" would be ideal for the rappel descent which is also the best choice for retreat from storm or injury.