The north ridge of Pagoda Peak is one of the most overlooked yet enjoyable alpine rock routes of a moderate difficulty in Rocky Mountain National Park. Pagoda is a 13,597' summit to be savored as it straddles the crest between Longs Peak and the Chiefs Head along the Continental Divide.
 A view of the complete north ridge of Pagoda Peak, the steep upper tier is the crux section
Description
First Ascent: |
Buckingham, Brook, Catwood and Cox, 1958 |
Style: |
Traditional Alpine multi-pitch with no fixed gear or anchors. |
Difficulty: |
5.7 |
Length: |
7 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III |
Season: |
summer |
Pagoda Peak, North Ridge
III 5.7 |
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This overlooked classic takes a dramatic line up the center of the north face of the very aesthetic Pagoda Mountain. Although the route is a bit "raw and dirty" at the moment, only due to a lack of visitors, the rock quality, route quality, position and big summit make this a moderate classic which compares easily to the nearby North Ridge of Spearhead - arguably, it is an even more aesthetic and inspiring route.
Location
The North Buttress is very obvious to see from below when standing in the meadows just east of Spearhead. Approach the route up this valley aiming for the col between Pagoda and the West Ridge of Longs (Keyboard to the Winds). There is an obvious horizontal dark band of rock which bisects the bottom of the route, about 400' above the base of the first slabs at the bottom of the face.
Approach a grassy ledge system from the left (east) side of the buttress and make an easy but exposed traverse into the base of the route which is identified by the three left-facing corner systems rising on the buttress crest.
 On the lower pitches up the center of the ridge on great, untrodden granite
Route Information
Taking advantage of nice but mostly small belay ledges, we did 8 pitches consisting of:
1. 40m up L. facing corners to belay on top of a flake (exposed 5.5).
 In the crux pitches on the upper headwall
2. 55m up more L facing corners to a small ledge (half-way) where one traverses left to climb a short unprotected slab (5.5) up to another splitter crack system which leads via more discontinuous cracks to the top of the 1st ridgecrest (5.7).
3. 30m up and left on slab (5.4) to large grassy ledge directly below and left of vertical prow.
4. 50m up almost vertical section of juggy climbing (30' left of prow) aiming for chimney system which contains a fair bit of loose rock (be careful here) (5.7)- belay at nice stance in chimney.
 On the upper ridge, just below the summit
5. 50m up chimney then face to top of ridge crest (5.5).
6. Continue up ridgecrest (airy 4th class) or step down to the west side of the ridge and walk through talus to base of 50m slab below and just right of crest (5.3).
 Just below the summit on the upper north ridge
7. 40m pitch up featured slabby terrain to just below summit. Scramble or rope another 20m pitch to the top (5.3).
Descent
Descend down the mellow (2nd) class East Ridge of Pagoda and then down from the col between the "Sievers Tower" and Pagoda. Easy walk down, staying north to avoid short cliff bands.
 At the end of the easy descent from the summit of Pagoda Equipment
No fixed pins, slings or any signs of travel were observed on a recent ascent. Many parallel cracks exist on the gorgeous granite of this ridge so many cams up to 3" and some nuts will suffice for protection.
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