The "Spiral Route" on Notchtop Spire does exactly as the name suggests as it winds it's way from the bottom west end of the spire across the south face, ending up at the famous notch in the spire on it's east side. This is a great adventure to an otherwise inaccessible summit.
Notchtop Spire, Spiral Route
II+ 5.7
First Ascent: |
Paiute |
Type: |
Traditional alpine multi-pitch with big belay ledges |
Difficulty: |
5.7 |
Length: |
5 pitches, 750' feet, Grade II+ |
Season: |
spring thru fall |
Description
The "Spiral Route" on Notchtop Spire is one of the more moderate alpine rock routes to one of the least accessible summit's in Rocky Mountain National Park.
 An alternative pitch 1 of the Spiral Route Location
The approach to the Notchtop Spire starts at the Bear Lake treailhead at 9450' in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park where the trail heads north towards Lake Helene in the Ptarmagin Valley. The Ptarmagin Valley has the Ptarmagin Glacier at it's head and the north face of Flattop and the Ptarmagin Couloirs. Notchtop guards the valley entrance on it's north side.
Approach the route from the gulley which sits immediately on it's west side and climb this grass and boulder strewn gulley for about 200' vertical to where an easy grass ledge system traverses east to a large flat ledge on the skyline- there is a gulley which comes in from the center of the south face of the Spire which also reaches this ledge from the east.
Route Information
P1- 50m Starting from the far left side of the big flat ledge, head straight-up steep terrain on postiive holds and minimal gear to a ledge about 30' above then veer up and right across a rubble strewn ledge then onto a lower angle face, belaying in a crack just below the next big ledge. (5.5)
A quick scramble/pitch to the top end of the big grassy ledge here will help reduce rope drag and give a better belay for this steep section.
P2- 40m From the left/center of the this mini-headwall, start-up and left on steeper, blocky terrain which has a weakness back right, then onto another big grassy ledge. Belay at the top of that grassy ledge. (5.6)
P3- 30m Head-up the little chimney which can be exited on the right, then up another short, thin crack to the highest ledge system above which connects easily to the south ridge route or heads east into the "hanging meadows".
 Getting into it on pitch 3 of the Spiral Route, Notchtop Spire
P4- 55m Through the crux headwall, the "best way" I've found involves ascending a open chimney from the highest point in the meadows just right of the notch. Up this chimney for 20' until one can step left on big knobs to traverse 6' into a splitter hand and finger crack which continues for another 70' before going behind a flake/slot then straight-up through another stemming chimney before one steps right out of the chimney after 10' to gain easier ground and another big ledge. (5.7)
 Looking up at the notch with the final pitches above P5- 50m Climb straight-up out of the belay up a white quartz wall which is featured with flakes and knobs stepping left near the end to avoid further difficulties. Belay in an open gulley just below the summit and about 50' above and north of the notch proper. (5.6)
P6- 4th class 20m up easy corners and ramps to the summit and then scramble back down to the notch for rappelling or continue to the north for the traversing descent off of the peak.
 Above the notch with the spire summit and Longs Peak behind Descent
There are two common descent methods for getting off of Notchtop Spire. One involves rappelling down the west face of the spire on two ropes (50m rappels), the other involves some downclimbing and up to 3 horizontal pitches on the west face to reach the descent couloir to the north..
For the rappel descent, you will need two full ropes or a single lead line and a full-length "tag-line", usually 6-7mm diameter, allows one to make 5 rappels down the west face, just to the skiers left of the notch and the gulley/chimney that fall directly out of the notch on the west side. Finding the first set of anchors is the crux and they lie just skiers left of the gulley that you start down out of the notch.
For the single rope traverse-off method of descent. From the summit which is the first tower just north of the notch, head down and north off the west side of the summit into a gulley which is taken far right until it ends and the first belay anchor is set-up.
1. Belay down 10' and across the top of a gulley to traverse into an obvious mini-notch which has a big ledge and a large cairn on it. Avoid the many "wrong" rappel anchors that are below you in these gulleys.
2. A belayed downclimb again for 15' and then traversing left and a little up to reach a good stance after 50m.
3. The final pitch north takes one to easier ground and the descent couloir which does contain significant hazards in the spring due to cornice drops and the resulting avalanches.
 Traversing off on the west face of Notchtop Spire
Warning: Ravens and marmots conspire in this cirque to eat all of your food, pack contents, and approach shoes if allowed. Either carrying everything up the route with you or hanging packs upside down well off the ground and super-sealed may keep the beasts at bay.
Equipment
A standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot and at least one #3 should be sufficient. At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful. One single 60 meter rope will get you down via traversing into the Notchtop Couloir. Otherwise a second rope, preferrably a "tag-line" would be ideal for the rappel descent which is also the best choice for retreat from storm or injury.
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