North Face

The North Face of Longs Peak could fit in either the ski mountaineering, ice and mixed, or alpine rock categories as it changes by season and storm to reveal many different characteristics.  It can be the quickest way to the summit of Longs Peak or the quickest way to fall off the mountain when avalanche hazard is high.

 

longs peak north face
martha

First Ascent:  

Enos Mills?  

1900? 

Climbing Styles: 

Fall:  mixed route  Winter: avalanche trap

Spring: ski descents/ moderate mountaineering  

Summer: short rock climb and scramble to summit of Longs Peak

Difficulty: 

5.4 slab or 50 degree snow or ice

Length: 

1-2  pitches, 180' technical and 600' of scrambling Grade II 

Season:

 summer, fall, spring


 

 

Longs Peak, Colorado  14,255'

North Face aka Cables Route

Grade II 5.4 rock, mixed or 50 degree skiing

 

longs peak north face

The crux pitches in typical spring conditions with half ice/snow and half exposed rock on the climb.  One of the eye bolts is just above the climber.

Description 


You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the summit of Rocky Mountain National Park's highest summit.   The route is commonly done in a long day and a high level of fitness and some technical experience are necessary

to get both up and down this route now that the cables have been removed.


It is very common for groups to camp the night before, usually at the Boulderfield campsites, directly below the North Face or for a more protected camp, the Jim's Grove campsites are the highest tree covered camping spot on Longs. 


At all higher bivy sites (directly below the North Face, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required.    


It is approximately 6.5 miles each way from the trailhead to summit of Longs Peak via the North Face route, one of the most direct and quickest ways to the summit of Longs Peak.

north face longs peak

The North Face of Longs Peak in September conditions, 2007
north face longs peak colorado
The North Face of Longs Peak marked in blue in  May 2007 conditions.
 

 

Avalanche Danger 

The North Face of Longs Peak often has very significant avalanche hazard, typically from mid-November until late April.  This very exposed northern aspect is often lee or cross-loaded after a snowstorm and it's perfect upper 40 degree average angle, slick bed surface (rock slabs) and undercut nature (unsupported by cliffs) are the perfect ingredients for dangerous slab avalanche conditions.  

With a terrain trap as serious as the Diamond below, extreme caution should be used in evaluating the potential for slab avalanches and this area should be avoided when these conditions exist which is common for most of the winter months.  The Keyhole or Trough Couloir routes are the preferred "moderate" routes to the summit of Longs Peak in the winter months.

north face longs peak


Approach:

Leaving the Longs Peak trailhead at 9,400', one ascends the rocky trail to above treeline to reach the Jim's Grove trail junction after 2.8 miles and 1,600' of elevation gain.  This initial section typically takes around 1:15 hours.  If you cross the creek at the Jim's Grove junction (11,000') and take the old trail up towards Granite Pass, you can cut-off about a half mile by avoiding the longer way which passes by the Chasm Lake Junction.

From the Jim's Grove cut-off to Granite Pass is another mile and 1,000' vertical feet of elevation gain (45 minutes).  From Granite Pass follow the long switchbacks up to the Boulderfield and continue all the way to the campsites which are another 1.5 miles and 45 minutes up from Granite Pass.  Including breaks, the typical total time to the Boulderfield (12,760') is around 3 hours and this is typically where one would want to be by sunrise in the summer months when thunderstorms ar a regular hazard.

At the Boulderfield campsites, head straight-up towards the North Face route and when it is dry, there are some switchback trails in the dirt and scree of the upper 1,000' before the Chasm View (13,400')  that will make the way a bit easier.  Stay below and right of the small rock tower which sits on the north side of the ridgecrest and after a few more hundred feet of 3rd class scrambling, clean rock slabs will block further easy progress and depending on snow cover and climber ability, the rope comes out at this point and from 2-5 pitches of low 5th class climbing take one into the upper half of the route which is all 3rd class again to the summit.

anchor bolts longs peak north face longs peak ski descent north face

(upper left) The "eye bolt" at the top of the crux pitch. (upper right) Skiers descending the north face in mid-June 2009 conditions.  Photo courtesy of Rio Roman.


Technical Pitches:

From the base of the rock slabs that compose the technical pitches of the North Face route, depending on the quantity and quality of the snow covering the route, typically this section is done in one or two pitch lengths and when the route is completely melted out, it is very easy to use the three large "eye bolts" which stick out from the rock about a foot high.  

One bolt is at the base of the technical bit (usually the last to melt out) , one in the middle of the crux pitch, and one at the top of the crux pitch.  It is generally easier to girth-hitch a shoulder-length (24") runner though the eye of the bolt as the diameter of the metal is too large for most carabiners to fit around. 

From the top of the crux pitch of climbing, continue up and climber's left towards the summit and when the route is melted out completely, there are a number of cairns which help delineate where the easiest route goes.  The last 600 vertical feet of climbing above the rock slabs is an easy hike with a bit of scrambling when dry or a mellow ski descent or snow ascent when covered with an "agreeable" snow covering, typically no steeper than 45 degrees.

 

 north face longs peak coloradolongs peak north face colorado

(upper left) Joanne Helmuth cruising up stellar snow conditions on a May 2007 ascent  (upper right) Rappelling down the North Face in October, 2007 conditions.


Descent:

Most climbers scramble down the upper face and then do two 30 meter rappels from the bolts on the North Face route or take the easier but longer "Keyhole Route" back to the Boulderfield.

longs peak north face


Seasons:

 

May through October are typically the best months for an ascent of the North Face.  Spring is more likely to be wet from snowmelt or dangerous from avalanches, the months of July and August are the worst time for thunderstorms,.


The autumn season quickly gives mixed climbing conditions (crampons and tools) until the route is too dangerous due to avalanche risk and a particularly nasty terrain trap (being taken over the Diamond in an avalanche).


In typical winter conditions, this face is one of the worst slopes to spend time on as it is perfect upper 30 degree angles, unsupported, and often wind-loaded with sensitive slabs.  A no worse terrain trap than the Diamond exists and so confidence in snowpack strength should be high when choosing this objective.

 

summit longs peak colorado

Savoring the summit of Longs Peak on a calm, quiet May afternoon.


Permits:

No permit is required to climb Longs Peak. Bivy permits or camping permits are required and available at the Rocky Mtn National Park Backcountry Office (970-586-1242).  They are strictly enforced and they must be picked up in person, during business hours. 

 

Gear:  

One rope (A 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) and one half set of cams (6), from one-half to three inches. Four to five slings shoulder-length runners and a 48" sling would be sufficient. A helmet is a always a good idea in the mountains where not all handholds have been regularly tested and tightened.

Most climbers use sticky "approach" shoes or comfy rock shoes when the rock is dry in summer.  Good mountain boots with or without crampons and an ice axe will be necessary when the route is snow covered and an ice "tool" might be handy when there is much ice on the climb (Sept- Nov, June-July).   

Rain gear is essential as is warm clothing (fleece top, warm hat and gloves). The north face of Longs goes into the shade early (by 11 a.m.) and temperatures can drop fast.  

 


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