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The North Face of Longs Peak could easily fit in either the ski mountaineering, ice and mixed, or alpine rock categories as it changes by season and storm to reveal many different characteristics. It can be the quickest way to the summit of Longs Peak or the quickest way to fall off the mountain when avalanche hazard is high.
Longs Peak North Face, aka "Cables Route"
Grade II: 5.4 or WI 1,M(.5) or snow to 45 degrees
First Ascent: |
Enos Mills? 1900? |
Style: |
Fall: mixed route Winter: avalanche trap Spring: ski descent/easy mountaineering Summer: short rock climb and scramble to summit of Longs Peak |
Difficulty: |
5.4 or easy mixed or 45 degree snow |
Length: |
1-2 pitches, 150' technical and 600' of scrambling Grade II |
Season: |
summer, fall, spring |
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The North Face of Longs Peak in September conditions, 2007
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The North Face of Longs Peak marked in blue in May 2007 conditions
Season:
May through October are typically the best months for an ascent of the North Face. Spring is more likely to be wet from snowmelt or dangerous from avalanches, the months of July and August are the worst time for thunderstorms, and the autumn season quickly gives mixed climbing conditions (crampons and tools) until the route is too dangerous due to avalanche risk and a particularly nasty terrain trap (being taken over the Diamond in an avalanche).
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Vertical Elevation Gain and Mileage:
You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the summit. The route is commonly done in a long day, though a high level of fitness is needed. It is also common to camp the night before, usually at the Boulderfield campsites. At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required. It is approximately 6.5 miles each way from the trailhead to summit of Longs Peak via the North Face route.
Just above the Boulderfield campsites with the North Face of Longs Peak ahead
Gear:
One rope (A 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) and one half set of cams (6), from one-half to three inches. Four to five slings shoulder-length runners and a 48" sling might be helpful. A helmet is a always a good idea in the mountains where not all handholds have been regularly tested.
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Most climbers use sticky "approach" shoes or comfy rock shoes when the rock is dry in summer. Good mountain boots with or without crampons and an ice axe will be necessary when the route is snow covered and an ice "tool" might be handy when there is much ice on the climb (Sept., Oct., June). Rain gear is essential, as is warm clothing (fleece top, warm hat and gloves). The north face of Longs goes into the shade early (by 11 a.m.) and temperatures can drop fast.
Approach:
Leaving the Longs Peak trailhead at 9,400', one ascends the rocky trail to above treeline to reach the Jim's Grove trail junction after 2.8 miles and 1,600' of elevation gain. This initial section typically takes around 1:15 hours. If you cross the creek at the Jim's Grove junction (11,000') and take the old trail up towards Granite Pass, you can cut-off about a half mile by avoiding the longer way which passes by the Chasm Lake junction.
From the Jim's Grove cut-off to Granite Pass is another mile and 1,000' vertical feet of elevation gain (45 minutes). From Granite Pass follow the long switchbacks up to the Boulderfield and continue all the way to the campsites which are another 1.5 miles and 45 minutes up from Granite Pass. Including breaks, the typical total time to the Boulderfield (12,760') is around 3 hours and this is typically where one would want to be by sunrise.
At the Boulderfield campsites, head straight-up towards the North Face route and when it is dry, there are some switchback trails in the dirt and scree of the upper 1,000' before the Chasm View (13,400') that will make the way a bit easier. Stay below and right of the small rock tower which sits on the north side of the ridgecrest and after another
Looking up at the "crux" pitches (right-hand snow runnel) of the North Face of Longs Peak in May 2007 conditions
Technical Pitches:
From the base of the rock slabs that compose the technical pitches of the North Face route, depending on the quantity and quality of the snow covering the route, typically this section is done in one or two pitch lengths and when the route is completely melted out, it is very easy to use the three large "eye bolts" which stick out from the rock about a foot high. One bolt is at the base of the technical bit (usually the last to melt out) , one in the middle of the crux pitch, and one at the top of the crux pitch. It is generally easier to girth-hitch a shoulder-length (24") runner though the eye of the bolt as the diameter of the metal is too large for most carabiners to fit around.
The crux pitches in typical spring conditions with half ice/snow and half exposed rock on the climb. One of the eye bolts is just above the climber in this photo.
The "eye bolt" at the top of the crux pitch.
From the top of the crux pitch of climbing, continue up and climber's left towards the summit and when the route is melted out completely, there are a number of cairns which help delineate where the easiest route goes. The last 600 vertical feet of climbing above the rock slabs is an easy hike with a bit of scrambling when dry or a mellow ski descent or snow ascent when covered with an "agreeable" snow covering, typically no steeper than 45 degrees.
Joanne Helmuth cruising up stellar snow conditions on a May 2007 ascent
Descent:
Most climbers scramble down the upper face and then do two 30 meter rappels from the bolts on the North Face route or take the easier but longer "Keyhole Route" back to the Boulderfield.
Rappelling down the North Face in October, 2007 conditions
Avalanche Hazard:
The North Face of Longs Peak often has very significant avalanche hazard, typically from mid-November until late April. This very exposed northern aspect is often lee or cross-loaded after a snowstorm and it's perfect upper 40 degree average angle, slick bed surface (rock slabs) and undercut nature (unsupported by cliffs) are the perfect ingredients for dangerous slab avalanche conditions. With a terrain trap as serious as the Diamond below, extreme caution should be used in evaluating the potential for slab avalanches and this area should be avoided when these conditions exist which is common for most of the winter months. The Keyhole or Trough Couloir routes are the preferred "moderate" routes to the summit of Longs Peak in the winter months.
Permits:
No permit is required to climb Longs Peak. Bivy permits or camping permits are required and available at the Rocky Mtn National Park Backcountry Office (970-586-1242). They are strictly enforced and they must be picked up in person, during business hours.
Savoring the summit all alone on a beautiful May day on which we departed the trailhead at 10am, reached the summit at 2pm and were back at the car by 5:30pm in time for an early supper in Estes Park.
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