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This historic route was a test-piece in difficulty and length when first ascended by the rock-jock Stettner brothers from Chicago. It is an obvious line that links right-facing dihedrals and cracks to the Broadway Ledge system on the magnificent east face of Longs Peak. Typically finished via Kieners in mid-summer, this still classic alpine rock route is made significantly easier with the use of sticky rubber shoes, camming devices and solid belays.
Stettner's Ledges
II+ 5.7+
First Ascent: |
Joe and Paul Stettner |
Type: |
Traditional alpine rock route |
Difficulty: |
5.7 to 5.8 |
Length: |
5-7 pitches, 800' feet, Grade II+ |
Season: |
June through September |
 Sunrise on the Stettner's Ledges route on the Lower East Face of Longs Peak.
Description
The lower east face of Longs Peak holds some of the best moderate rock climbing at high altitude in Rocky Mountain National Park and the Stettner's Ledges route is a very aesthetic and historic line up this magnificent face. This sustained climb at the grade on diamond-solid granite is one that holds some interesting but moderate challenges with a lot of laybacking on slicker than usual granite due to the glacial polish on this part of the face. This is alpine rock climbing at its best.
This route is typically in "ideal shape" between mid-June and September when the snowpack is melted down enough and snow conditions are firm with lower avalanche risk and the rock is mostly dry. Longs Peak is one of the more lightning-prone points in the region so definitely a place to get down from when the threat is imminent which can be common from May through August.
 The left side of the Lower East Face of Longs Peak at sunrise.
Planning and Preparation
It is a 4850' elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit of Longs Peak. Stettner's Ledges is commonly done in a long day, although a high level of fitness is needed to go car to car in style. It is very common for parties to do a bivouac just above Chasm Lake under some very large boulders and return at the end of the climb to recover their camping equipment.
At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit must be picked-up from the backcountry office prior to your departure which includes parking permits for the trailhead. Marmots and other rodents are rampant, so put everything away well-hung or buried under massive rocks.
Allow three hours to reach the base of the route and when the summer monsoon pattern is in place, ideally one is climbing by 6am which would require a trailhead departure at 3am to take maximum advantage of the morning calm. This route becomes much more difficult when wet and retreat from the upper mountain is very difficult and dangerous in a full-blown summer storm.
The climb to the top of Longs Peak is only half-way over at the Broadway Ledges when the technical difficulties of Stettner's end, but the endurance and altitude push up and over the summit of Longs (14,225') can really slow-down the day. Otherwise, retreat back south across Broadway and a descent of the Lambslide might require crampons and or rappelling when mid-summer conditions present firm snow or alpine ice.
 Mid-way up the first pitch of Stettner's Ledges. Clothing and Gear
Running or approach shoes will ideally suffice for the hike-in although you may want stiff soles and waterproof boots when the approach is still snowy. Usually boots and crampons are ideal until at least mid- June. The route can be wet in many places including the crux until July. Most climbers prefer a good smearing and crack shoe best suite for the smooth granite of this route and if they can be worn along with a pair of socks, even better in this cold environment. Storm-proof rain gear and warm layers including a hat and gloves plus headlamp and extra batteries are typically a necessity.
A 60 meter lead rope, ideally in the 9.5mm range are nice for these types of route along with a "tag line" of 7mm cord of the same length or a double rope system to provide more options for retreat. One set of nuts (many parallel cracks) and a double set of camalots up to #4 and down to a #1 C3 can be helpful. A mix of about 15 quickdraws and shoulder-length slings will be helpful for these very long pitches. A helmet is always a good idea in the mountains where rescue is far away and not all of the handholds have been regularly tested. Crampons and an ice axe are often necessary for the approach up the steep snow of the Mills Glacier to reach the base of the cliff.
 A topo of the Stettner's Ledges route on Longs Peak, Colorado. Route Description
There are numerous options for routefinding on this 50' wide series of right-facing dihedrals and variations up to 5.9 are possible depending on the choice. There are only a few rappel points on this monolithic face and two ropes to facilitate retreat could be very helpful due to injury or weather. The few remaining pitons on the route can aid with route finding if not with leader protection.
P1 - (5.5, 40m) From the top of the snow of the Mills Glacier, climb up broken corners with dirt and loose rock (major hazard) until the higher of many ledge systems with numerous crack options for a belay.
 Eli heading right on the second pitch into the base of the dihedral systems.
P2- (5.6, 50m) Take the path of least resistance up numerous choices of flakes and corners, aiming for a belay stance on a good ledge just below the first obvious corner/flake of the middle dihedrals. Somewhat runout climbing on solid but smooth rock characterizes this section of the route.
 In the middle of the first dihedral pitch (3) on Stettner's Ledges
P3- (5.7, 55m) Climb straight up from the anchor into a steep short right-facing corner then stay left to to the big right-facing corner that after a ledge, gives another rounded boulder problem to reach the large "cave ledge". This wild feature contains some rappel anchors at its' opposite end.
 Climbing through the steep piton ladder section of the fourth pitch.
P4- (5.7+, 50m) Start up a clean corner on crisp edges then step-out left up a steep headwall with numerous pitons and cam placements and a few improbable moves for the grade. Often referred to as the "piton ladder pitch". Finish up another corner to reach the start of the spacious ledge systems known as "Lunch Ledge".
 On the final pitch of Stettner's.(5.7+) Photos of Eli courtesy of Jeff Shafer.
P5 (5.4, 50m) Traverse left on ledges and across right-facing dihedrals to reach the base of a few corners that parallel each other straight-up to the Broadway Ledges.
 Jeff on the final few feet up to Broadway.
P6- (5.7+, 50m) Pick your dihedral well as some are cleaner and better protected than others and all are steep enough to require holding on tight for the final few feet to Broadway.
 A topo of the second technical pitch on Kieners.
Follow the route description for upper Kieners.
 Looking up at the final half of Kieners in mid-summer conditions.
Descent
The quickest way down from the summit of Longs Peak is to descend the North Face although the Keyhole can be just as fast depending on crowds and conditions. The North Face involves a couple of rappels from large eye bolts that are remnants of when it was known as "the Cables Route". If you have bivy gear at Chasm Lake, you will want to take the NF down to the East Ridge which leads up to Mt. Lady Washington and about half-way up sits the rock known as "the Camel" from which the direct descent down to the bivy sites starts. This is 3rd class terrain which connects to skier's left (east) into a gulley, usually with a large snow drift at the bottom which leads directly down to the bivy sites.
Permits
No permit is required to climb on Longs Peak. Bivy permits are required and available at the Rocky Mountain National Park- Backcountry Office (970-586-1242) and are strictly enforced. They must be picked up in person during business hours and there is a fee.
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