|
|
Kieners is one of the most classic moderate alpine routes in the Lower 48 States and can be climbed most of the year depending on snow and avalanche conditions. It is a "mixed route" in that it contains snow and rock climbing and is the most moderate way up the incredible East Face of Longs Peak.
Longs Peak, Kieners route aka the Mountaineers Route
Grade IV: 5.4 or M(.5), snow to 45 degrees
First Ascent: |
Walter Kiener, 1924 |
Style: |
Fall: mixed route Winter: very big day Spring: moderate mixed mountaineering Summer: icy climb of Lambslide to short rock climb and scramble to summit of Longs Peak |
Difficulty: |
5.4 or easy mixed and 45 degree snow/ice |
Length: |
5-12 pitches, depending on conditions, climbing abilities and risk tolerance |
Season: |
All year depending on avalanche conditions and climber abilities |
|
The East Face of Longs Peak in June with Kiener's in Red, the Notch Couloir in Yellow and the North Face in Green
.
Seasonal Conditions:
June through September are typically the best months for an ascent of Kiener's. Early summer provides firm snow but medium-challenging mixed conditions. The months of July and August are the worst time for thunderstorms and by mid-August the Lambslide is often in a dangerously melted-out condition. The autumn season quickly gives mixed climbing conditions (crampons and tools) until the route is potentially too dangerous due to avalanche risk (primarily in the Lambslide and upper Kiener's sections) although the use of a rope and belays can negate much of this risk.
.
Vertical Elevation Gain and Mileage:
You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the summit. The route is commonly done in a long day, though a high level of fitness is needed. It is also nice to camp the night before, usually at the Chasm Lake bivy sites which involve a descent from the "Camel" to pick-up one's gear. At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required. It is approximately 5.5 miles each way from the trailhead to summit of Longs Peak via the Kiener's route.
The "Camel" descent marked in red with the winter mixed route "Martha" in blue
Gear:
One rope (a 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) and a full set of cams (12), from .25 to three inches, 8-10 shoulder-length runners, and a couple of 48" slings would be helpful. A helmet is a always a good idea in the mountains where not all handholds have been regularly tested.
.
Most climbers use sticky "approach" shoes when the rock is dry in summer with strap-on crampons for Lambslide. The Black Diamond aluminum "Neve" crampons are perfect for this use due to their sturdy yet lightweight construction. Good mountain boots, crampons and an ice axe will be necessary when the route is more snow covered and an ice "tool" may be better when there is much snow/ ice on the climb (Sept - July). Rain gear is essential, as is warm clothing (warm pants, fleece top, gaitors, warm hat and gloves). The east face of Longs goes into the shade early (by 11 a.m.) and temperatures can drop fast once the sun is behind the peak.
Approach:
Leaving the Longs Peak trailhead at 9,400', one ascends the rocky trail to above treeline to reach the Jim's Grove trail junction after 2.8 miles and 1,600' of elevation gain. This initial section typically takes around 1:15 hours. Another 1.3 miles takes one to the Chasm Lake junction and another .7 miles takes one to Chasm Lake at 11,800'. The approach to Chasm Lake is typically done in about 2 hrs. and with another 45 minutes up to Lambslide, reaching this crampon-on point would best be done just before sunrise.
It is most ideal when the lake has at last a foot of ice on it as it can easily be crossed in 5 minutes in these conditions to reach the western shore where just northwest are the big boulders that are the official "bivy sites" for this side of Longs. There is often sufficient ice on the lake from early December until early June. Otherwise stay right (north) around the lake where a number of cairns well above the lake (100' vertical) contour through the talus to reach the western end (30 minutes avg.).
Part-way up the Lamslide Couloir in June Conditions
From the west end of the lake, stay left (south) to climb around the terminal moraine of the long-dead Mills Glacier, taking the easiest way through the snow or scree to reach the base of the Lambslide Couloir. Usually roping-up here or at least pulling out the crampons and axe are necessary for the 1000' vertical ascent of the Lambslide (45 degree snow/ice) to reach the cut-off to the Broadway ledge system.
The Lambslide couloir and the northern end of Broadway where it connects with "The Diamond"
Another view of the Lambslide showing the cut-off to Broadway just above the "black rock band"
Although the route "officially" starts on Broadway where it intersects with the Notch Couloir, the grade IV rating that I give Kiener's reflects the approach, long climb up Lambslide, and in typical conditions (Oct.- July), the 4-5 pitches of roped climbing across Broadway where a few fixed pins and many cams will help protect the leader and second from a long fall down the lower east slabs. A running belay may be another alternative for belaying the Broadway traverse although without anchored belays, even more gear should be clipped to prevent both climbers from potentially hanging off the rope over the lower east face.
The beginnning of Broadway in typical June conditions
Broadway Traverse:
From the top of the Lambslide Couloir, by staying low on the ledge system, the climbing is relatively easy although increasingly exposed until one reaches a nice ledge where the first pitched climbing across Broadway typically starts. The initial pitch involves a steep (50 degree snow) downclimb and then it is mostly horizontal traversing pitches across 40-50 degree snow to reach the Notch Couloir.
The beginning of the Broadway traverse at sunrise in June conditions
The airy "step across" move on the typical second pitch of the Broadway traverse
The "narrows section" of the Broadway traverse with the "step across" section at the far end
Getting closer to the Notch Couloir on the typical third pitch of the Broadway traverse. A couple of snow- pickets or flukes can be helpful for protecting this section as well as the Notch Couloir traverse.
The Notch Couloir traverse pitch and the beginning of the upper Kieners route at it's end.
Looking up the Notch Couloir in ideal June conditions
Upper Kieners:
From the north end of the Notch Couloir, the beginning of the upper Kieners route starts and when there is more snow in the couloir, a higher start can be made to traverse right into the first "chimney" section. With less snow, staying low on Broadway and starting up near-vertical rock (5.4) on the bottom right edge of the Notch Couloir is the best option.
Starting upper Kiener's from the right edge of the Notch Couloir with good snow coverage
Starting upper Kiener's from Broadway proper in typical summer conditions- this is the rock crux of the route.
Starting from Broadway, the first 400' of climbing are the technical crux of the route which involve steeper, well protected rock at about the 5.4 level. The goal here is to enter a "chimney" about 100' above Broadway which is approximately 20' wide and has a vertical headwall at it's apex. The top of the chimney is a great place for a belay stance with a number of vertical cracks that take small to medium size cams. Alternatively, a belay can be set-up just after the exit right from the chimney section.
Starting the second pitch above the Kiener's Chimney's
The optional belay spot just above the first chimney
The second pitch traverses right approximately 30' before a number of lower angle slabs and crack systems can be ascended straight-up for a full rope length to reach the "upper slope" section of the route. At least a half-dozen variations through this upper slab section up to the 5.7 grade are available and all of the options offer great if slightly more difficult climbing.
Traversing out of the Chimney's into the second pitch slabs
Looking at the slab pitches in typical conditions with the easiest line marked
Once these "Kienerss Chimney's" pitches are ascended, the upper slopes are encountered and depending on conditions they can be easily 3rd classed on grassy/rocky steps or when snow covered, usually pitched-out due to their steep and exposed position. In the spring and fall, ice can underlay the snow up here and so caution should be used when determining whether to use "simul-climbing" techniques with a rope or whether to belay out this section. These upper slopes are typically 4-5 full pitches, following the snow to where it narrows and then trending slightly right to take the path of least resistance through some lower 5th class rock steps that pass-by the "Table Ledge" section of the Diamond face. By following the path of least resistance up to the "red buttress", a couple of steeper, clean granite steps are encountered before the "step-around" section" to the right leads one to the summit slopes.
A climber heading up into the 2nd pitch of the "upper slope" section of Kiener's in June conditions
A good perspective on the angle of the "upper slope" section of Kiener's when it is snow covered
The last few rock steps before the "step-around" section
The "step-around" section of the route is somewhat anticlimatic as there is very little exposure here and once around the corner, the last 200' vertical to the summit is comprised of steppy granite ledges and slabs that take one directly to the summit block and register. Welcome to the summit of Longs!
Avalanche Hazard:
The East Face of Longs Peak often has very significant avalanche hazard, typically from mid-November until late April. This very exposed eastern aspect is often lee loaded after a snowstorm and it's perfect upper 40 degree average angle, slick bed surface (rock slabs) and undercut nature (unsupported by cliffs) are the perfect ingredients for dangerous slab avalanche conditions. With a terrain trap as serious as the Diamond and the Lower East Slabs below, extreme caution should be used in evaluating the potential for slab avalanches. The Lambslide Couloir and the Upper Slope sections of the route usually contain the highest danger and with careful route-finding and the use of a rope and belays, much of this avalanche danger can be negated due to the climbers being well attached to the rock face.
Hazards to other Climbers:
Be aware that a number of high-quality climbing routes lay below Broadway (Stettner's for example) and so great care should be taken when traversing this ledge system as not to knock-off any rocks onto climbers below. Especially in the summer months when there is much loose material ready to be released and the likelihood of a climber below is higher, a climber on Kiener's could easily kill someone, so be carefull!
Descent:
Typically, the North Face route is the common descent route unless avalanche conditions here are Considerable or greater in which case the Keyhole Route is the preferred path of descent back to the Boulderfield. If there is bivy gear left at the Chasm Lake bivy sites, a descent of the straightforward (3rd class) "Camel" descent is best.
Permits:
No permit is required to climb Longs Peak. Bivy permits or camping permits are required and available at the Rocky Mtn National Park Backcountry Office (970-586-1242). They cost $15, are strictly enforced, and must be picked up in person during business hours.
|
|
