Longs Peak, Colorado 14,255'

 Kieners Route  

aka 

'The Mountaineers Route'

Grade IV,  5.4 or M1, snow to 55 degrees 

Looking across Broadway in typical June conditions with most of the winter snow melted off the route.

You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the summit. The route is commonly done in a long day, though a high level of fitness is needed.  It is also nice to camp the night before, usually at the Chasm Lake bivy sites which involve a descent from the "Camel" to pick-up one's gear.  

At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required.  It is approximately 5.5 miles each way from the trailhead to summit of Longs Peak via the Kiener's route.

Leaving the Longs Peak trailhead at 9,400', one ascends the rocky trail to above treeline to reach the Jim's Grove trail junction after 2.8 miles and 1,600' of elevation gain.  

This initial section typically takes around 1:15 hours.  Another 1.3 miles takes one to the Chasm Lake junction and another .7 miles takes one to Chasm Lake at 11,800'.  The approach to Chasm Lake is typically done in about 2 hrs. and with another 45 minutes up to Lambslide, reaching this crampon-on point would best be done just before sunrise.

It is most ideal when the lake has at last a foot of ice on it as it can easily be crossed in 5 minutes in these conditions to reach the western shore where just northwest are the big boulders that are the official "bivy sites" for this side of Longs.  

There is often sufficient ice on the lake from early December until early June.  Otherwise stay right (north) around the lake where a number of cairns well above the lake (100' vertical) contour through the talus to reach the western end (30 minutes average).

Avalanche Hazard:

The East Face of Longs Peak often has very significant avalanche hazard, typically from mid-November until late April.  This very exposed eastern aspect is often lee loaded after a snowstorm and it's perfect upper 40 degree average angle, slick bed surface (rock slabs) and undercut nature (unsupported by cliffs) are the perfect ingredients for dangerous slab avalanche conditions.  

With a terrain trap as serious as the Diamond and the Lower East Slabs below, extreme caution should be used in evaluating the potential for slab avalanches.   The Lambslide Couloir and the Upper Slope sections of the route usually contain the highest danger and with careful route-finding and the use of a rope and belays, much of this avalanche danger can be negated due to the climbers being well attached to the rock face.

Approach:  

From the west end of Mills Lake, stay left (south) to climb around the terminal moraine of the long-dead Mills Glacier, taking the easiest way through the snow or scree to reach the base of the Lambslide Couloir.  Usually roping-up here or at least pulling out the crampons and axe are necessary for the 1000' vertical ascent of the Lambslide (45 degree snow/ice) to reach the cut-off to the Broadway ledge system.  

Although the route "officially" starts on Broadway where it intersects with the Notch Couloir, the grade IV rating that I give Kiener's reflects the entire approach, climb up Lambslide, and in typical conditions (Oct.- July),  the 4-5 pitches of roped climbing across Broadway where a few fixed pins and many cams will help protect the leader and second from a long fall down the lower east slabs. 

A running belay may be another alternative for belaying the Broadway traverse although without anchored belays, even more gear should be clipped to prevent both climbers from potentially hanging off a rope over the lower east face.

Broadway Traverse:

From the top of the Lambslide Couloir, by staying low on the ledge system, the climbing is relatively easy although increasingly exposed until one reaches a nice ledge where the first pitched climbing across Broadway typically starts.  The initial pitch involves a steep (55 degree snow) downclimb and then it is mostly horizontal traversing pitches across 40-50 degree snow to reach the Notch Couloir.

After the initial downclimb on what is often steep snow, the route traverses before heading high when snow covered to avoid the low 'boulder move', which can be the crux of the traverse.

(left) Andres styles the boulder traverse move.  (right) Taking the high route on the traverse to avoid the boulder traverse.

Upper Kieners: 

The beginning of the upper Kieners route starts from the north end of the Notch Couloir and when there is adequate snow in the couloir, a higher start can be made, traversing right into them bottom of the first "chimney" section.  With less snow, staying low on Broadway and starting up near-vertical rock (5.4), 20' right of the edge of the Notch Couloir is the best option.

   

 (left) Starting upper Kiener's from the right edge of the Notch Couloir with good snow coverage.  (right) Starting upper Kiener's from Broadway proper in typical summer conditions- this is the rock crux of the route.

Pitch 1- 55m (5.4) Starting from Broadway, the first 400' of climbing are the technical crux of the route which involve steeper, well protected rock at about the 5.4 level.  The goal here is to enter a "chimney" about 100' above Broadway which is approximately 20' wide and has a vertical headwall at it's apex.  The top of the chimney is a great place for a belay stance with a number of vertical cracks that take small to medium size cams.  Alternatively, a belay can be set-up just after the exit right from the chimney section.

(Above) Preparing to exit the chimney section of the start of the 2nd pitch (right) Just after exiting the start of pitch 2

Pitch 2 - 55m (5.4)   From the top of the initial chimney, head straight right through a tight gap onto a ledge system which can be traversed right for 30' before heading up and back left for a rope stretcher to belay in cracks just before the snowy or grassy ledge systems above.

Once these "Kieners Chimneys" pitches are ascended, the upper slopes are encountered and depending on conditions they can be easily 3rd classed on grassy/rocky steps or when snow covered, usually pitched-out due to their steep, exposed, and avalanche prone position.  In the spring and fall, ice can underlay the snow up here and so caution should be used when determining whether to use "simul-climbing" techniques with a rope or whether to belay out this section.  

These upper slopes when pitched out are typically 4-5 full pitches, following the snow to where it narrows and then trending slightly right to take the path of least resistance through some lower 5th class rock steps that pass-by the "Table Ledge" section of the Diamond face.   By following the path of least resistance up  to the "red buttress",  a couple of steeper, clean granite steps are encountered before the "step-around section" to the right leads one to the summit slopes.

The "step-around" section of the route is somewhat anti-climatic as there is very little exposure here and once around the corner, the last 200' vertical to the summit is comprised of steppy granite ledges and slabs that take one directly to the summit block and register.  Welcome to the summit of Longs!

The final terrain to the summit can be easy when dry or many more insecure pitches when the snow is in less ideal conditions.

The final steep red steps before the step across move and the 3rd class summit slopes.

Descent:

The quickest way down from the summit is to descend the North Face although the Keyhole can be just as fast.  The North Face involves a couple of rappels from large eye bolts that are remnants of  when it was known as "the Cables Route".  

If you have bivy gear at Chasm Lake, you will want to take the NF down to the East Ridge which leads up to Mt. Lady Washington and about half-way across sits the rock known as "the Camel" from which the direct descent down to the bivy sites begins.  This is 3rd class terrain which connects  skier's left (east) into a slight gully, usually with a large snow drift at the bottom which takes one directly down to the large boulder bivy sites.

June through September are typically the best months for an ascent of Kiener's.  Early summer provides firm snow but medium-challenging mixed conditions.  

The months of July and August are the worst time for thunderstorms and by mid-August the Lambslide is often in a dangerously melted-out condition.  

The autumn season quickly gives  mixed climbing conditions  (crampons and tools) until the route is potentially too dangerous due to avalanche risk (primarily in the Lambslide and upper Kiener's sections) although the use of a rope and belays can negate much of this risk.

Permits:

One rope (A 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) and one half set of cams (6-9), from one-half to three inches. Four to five slings shoulder-length runners and a 48" sling would be sufficient. A helmet is a always a good idea in the mountains where not all handholds have been regularly tested and tightened.

Lightweight boots or sturdy approach shoes can be sufficient  for the climb although you may want stiff soles and waterproof boots when the approach is still snowy or the weather is cold and wet.  Usually boots and crampons are ideal until at least mid- June if not the entire year on this climb.  The route can be wet in many places including the crux until July. 

Most folks prefer a comfortable and supportive all-day climbing shoe best suited for the crack and edging style of the route and if they can be worn along with a pair of socks, even better in this cold environment.  Storm-proof rain gear and warm layers including a hat and gloves plus headlamp and extra batteries are a necessity. 

• Casual Route
• Stettner's Ledges
• Notch Couloir

• North Face