The classic rock route up the center of the Diamond and the path of least resistance on this incredibly steep big-wall.  The "Casual" is one of the all-time best rock routes in North America and one not to be be taken lightly due to it's high-altitude and the stormy weather often encountered on this "northern- most Fourteener" in Colorado. 

Casual Route aka "The Integral"

IV 5.10a 

Planning and Preparation

This is a 4850' elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit of Longs Peak.  This route is commonly done in a long day, although a high level of fitness is needed for this approach.  It is also very common for parties to do a bivouac just above Chasm Lake under some very large boulders.  Alternate bivy sites include the Chasm View and the Broadway Ledge.  The Chasm View is the best option for getting on the route ahead of other parties, but it can also be logistically more difficult unless you plan on descending down to Broadway in which case you can take all of your camping gear down there with you when you start the day.

At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit must be picked-up from the backcountry office prior to your departure which includes parking permits for the trailhead.  Marmots and other rodents are rampant, so put everything away well-hung or buried under massive rocks.

Allow three hours to reach the base of the North Chimney or the Chasm View rappels and plan to get there before sunrise to make the most of what will likely be a long day, times can range from 12hrs. roundtrip (car to car) or up to 15, 20 or more.

     Standing on the Mills Glacier at 12,000' taking in the 2,000 vertical feet to the summit of Longs Peak

Clothing and Gear

Running or approach shoes will ideally suffice for the approach although you may want stiff soles and waterproof boots when the approach is still snowy.  Usually boots and crampons are ideal until at least mid- June.  The route can be wet in many places including the crux until July.  Most folks prefer a comfortable and supportive all-day shoe best suited for the crack and edging style of the route and if they can be worn along with a pair of socks, even better in this cold environment.  Storm-proof rain gear and warm layers including a hat and gloves plus headlamp and extra batteries are a necessity. 

A 60 meter lead rope, ideally in the 9.3-9.5 range are nice for these types of route along with a  "tag line" of 7 or 8mm cord of the same length.  This is a lighter and more versatile system than a two-rope system.  One to two sets of nuts and typically a double set of camalots up to #3 and down to a #0 C3.  About 15 quickdraws and shoulder-length slings will be helpful for these very long pitches.  A helmet is always a good idea in the mountains where rescue is far away and not all of the handholds have been regularly tested or there could be parties above you or falling ice. 

                                                                A standard Diamond rack

Route Information

Climbing the Casual on a weekday will help in avoiding the crowds and in the summer months, the goal is to be up and off this beast before noon to avoid electrocution so focusing on moving at a speedy pace when possible, especially at change-over's, anchors, etc.  Crossing the Mill's Glacier can be the first crux of the day and in early season crampons may be necessary along with an axe if the snow is piled deep and steep.  Eventually it can be done in approach shoes with lightweight crampons (aluminum) and likely without an axe as the angle is mild. 

                                           Looking up at the Chasm View rappels from Broadway

                         A view across Broadway from the north end.  The North Chimney is the cleft at center.

The approach to this climb is a route in itself, almost 800' of climbing up to 5.7 in difficulty although at least half of it is easier, yet exposed.  A slip anywhere in here unroped could be fatal and it is often pitched out in up to four rope lengths to Broadway.  Starting on the slabs to the left and then around the big chockstone on the right then straight-up and either right (preferred) or left up to a fixed anchor.  The right ending ends up on the right-side of the chimney which may require one additional pitch to traverse this exposed and loose part of Broadway.  The Casual starts just 30' of the edge of the clean, stepped rock buttress on the left side of the chimney.

             Looking down from the top of the first pitch of the Casual with a party below in the North Chimney

                                                        Looking down Pitch 1 of the Casual

P1 - (7, 50m) Begin on the left side of an easy, broken pillar, traversing from left to right to reach a right-facing dihedral which trends up and left to reach a two-piton belay stance below a steep headwall and crack system.

                      Looking up at Pitch 2 on the Casual, the dihedral pitch is the left-most corner on the skyline.

P2-  (9+, 55m) A steep finger crack out of the belay on the left (9) after 30 steep feet, leads to the infamous  5.7 traverse in which the leader and belayer are both on the "sharp-end".  At a large angle piton in the steep crack, another piton 10' to the left begins a leftward traverse that goes for more than 100' across the entire slab.  Follow the few pitons (5 in '07) and the best holds and think of it as a gym 5.9+ and you'll be fine.  There are belay stances at the end of the traverse both high and low.  The lower one is at a rappel anchor on slings and the upper, 15' higher is at the base of a small box-chimney.

                          Frank Nederhand in the middle of the 5.9 finger crack below the start of the traverse

                                 Frank nearing the end of the difficulties on the infamous traverse pitch

P3-  (9+, 40m) Climb straight up from the anchor into the steep box-chimney then pull out right on good edges (crux) to work around the overhang.  The sustained climbing eases off after 30' and is mostly steep 5.8 up to a very nice belay ledge with numerous cracks for medium to smaller cams.  Just above this stance to the left is a fixed anchor at the base of the steep corner system composed of pins and nuts and lots of webbing.  Good for bailing-off of but not so nice for belaying.

                   Looking up at the 5.8 enduro pitch which stretches for a full 200' to the Yellow Wall bivy ledge

P4-  (9, 60m) Hold on tight and climb the steep corner with hand and finger cracks that lead to one rest at 50m then a large ledge at 60m just 5 meters short of the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge (YWBL)and directly below the stem-crack system at the start of the crux pitch. 

P5-  (5.10a , 55m) This is the "money pitch" of the route.  Move the belay up the YWBL or fire up the first flake and onto the ledge to start another enduro pitch of stemming, chimney and jamming to the infamous "Table Ledge".  First tackle a thin crack (9+) past a few pitons and then place a few big cams before entering the 5.8 squeeze chimney as it is runout in the middle before a nice #2 camalot protects the exit move left and now into the crux which is thin but well protected and there are usually a few fixed nuts that make it even easier.  Table Ledge is little more than a foot wide ledge with a few pitons at head height - belay directly at the top of this outstanding pitch on one of the most exposed belay platforms.

        Frank exiting the squeeze chimney of the crux pitch with a party below at the top of the enduro dihedral

P6- (5.8, 40m)Traverse straight left (8) , then down continuing left passing a few pins until you take the upper Table or lower Table traverse finish.  If you are rappelling down the Yellow Wall Rappel Route, then take the low traverse.  If you are heading to the summit, take the upper and expect a couple of thin moves getting up onto it.

                                                      Frank Nederhand hanging out on Table Ledge

Descent

The quickest way down from the summit is to descend the North Face although the Keyhole can be just as fast.  The North Face involves a couple of rappels from large eye bolts that are remnants of  when it was known as "the Cables Route".  If you have bivy gear at Chasm Lake, you will want to take the NF down to the East Ridge which leads up to Mt. Lady Washington and about half-way up sits the rock known as "the Camel" from which the direct descent down to the bivy sites starts.  This is 3rd class terrain which connects to skier's left (east) into a slight gully, usually with a large snow drift at the bottom which leads directly down to the bivy sites.

Otherwise, from Table Ledge do five, 50m rappels down and left to Broadway.  Then traverse down from the bivy cave to the bolted anchors which involve a 30m, then 3-50m rappels down the slabs just left of the North Chimney.

                                                    Near the bottom of the Lower East Slabs

Permits

No permit is required to climb.  Bivy permits are required and available at the Rocky Mountain National park Backcountry Office (970-586-1242) and are strictly enforced. They must be picked up in person during business hours.

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