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The East Buttress of Hallett is an excellent training ground for mixed climbing and with quick access, a few laps on this north wall can be done in a short morning.
Hallett_eastridge
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East Buttress of
Hallett Peak
1. Left Gully Edge 250m M1, 60-S
2. Left of Cleft 300m M3-4, 60-S
3. The
Cleft
300m M3-4, 60-S
4. Right Bypass 300m M1, 60-S
5. Right Runnel 250m M1-2, 60-S
Season: April to June
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On the fifth and
final pitch of the Right Runnel.
Click on photos to enlarge.
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This
rocky escarpment is just east of the 1st Buttress on Hallett North
Buttress and directly above the south shores of Emerald Lake in RMNP.
With just an hour easy approach and consistent conditions in
spring, this is a great training ground or warm-up for the test-pieces.
There is room on the abundant cracks and dihedrals for many more
variations.
The
Hallett Couloir defines the eastern edge of the 1st Buttress and it is
the right-hand edge and descent route from the summit of the East
Buttress.
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In the middle section of the Left Gully
Edge.
On the last pitch of the
Right Bypass.
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1.
Left Gully Edge II 250m M1 60-S
Start in the Central Couloir which narrows above a scree/snow slope.
Trend up and then left (south) at first before making a
couple of steep steps onto snowslopes. Trend right (west) about 1/2 way
up or take numerous exit options from off-widths to potential vertical
ice or traverse right (west) towards the easier snow slopes.
2.
Left of Cleft II 300m M1, 60-S
Start 20m right of the
Central Couloir in a smaller gully that trends left. Stay 30m
left of the obvious Cleft after the first snow band. A couple
of options for easier and harder finishes exist, but by trending right
at the second steps, the summit snowfields and easier ground will be
reached sooner.
3.
The Cleft
II 300m M3-4, 60-S
This direct route takes
a line through the most obvious feature at mid-height: a
steep chute that is accessed via a vertical step with a few old pitons
marking the way. Once in the poop chute, evacuate quickly as
it is a funnel for all sloughs above which lead directly to the top
with a small rock step before the summit slopes.
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Drytooling around the
short rock steps before the summit slopes on Left Gully.
Avalanche danger on this buttress tends to be most severe in the
approach couloirs to the routes and on the unsupported slopes
mid-route. The Cleft is particularly susceptible to
accumulated sloughs in the D2 range. The Hallett Couloir
descent is also avalanche prone with new snow, wind loading, and above
freezing temperatures.
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Mid-3rd pitch on
the Left Gully Edge.
Near the bottom of the Hallett Couloir.
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4. Right Bypass II 300m M1-2, 60-S
This right-trending
route starts 30m right (west) of the previous climb and begins
traversing at the headwall, that forms the crux of The Cleft.
A rightward trending traverse reaches the left edge of the
large hanging snowfield.
5.
Right Runnel II 250m M1-3, 60-S
This straight-up line
on the right side of the east buttress can be in good ice and firm snow
shape in the spring or early fall and in these ideal conditions it is a
fun romp up solid rock and compact snow.
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Starting the descent of the Hallett Couloir in fresh snow
conditions.
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A
standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2
camalot should
be sufficient plus maybe a large piece (#4 camalot) for any
potential wide crack variations. About ten shoulder
length slings to reduce
rope-drag and a few quick draws might be helpful. There is
generally not solid enough snow or ice on this buttress to warrant
carrying pickets or screws.
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Looking
down the Tyndall Gorge at Emerald, Dream, and Bear Lake. The
blue lined trail starts at the Bear Lake parking lot, 2 miles from
Emerald Lake and the East Buttress of Hallett.
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To discuss a backcountry skiing, rock climbing, or alpine adventure:
970.744.4898 or contact us at
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ClimbingLife
Guides is an authorized permittee of Rocky Mountain National Park,
Eldorado Canyon State Park, and Boulder Mountain Open Space with trips
in Peru, Ecuador and Alaska.
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ClimbingLife Guides, All Rights Reserved.
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