Hallett's "Culp-Bossier" Route

III+ 5.9

The North Buttress of Hallett Peak is one of the most accessible and yet imposing alpine walls in North America and some of the most popular routes in Rocky Mountain National Park ascend it's steep flanks.  This can be a popular cliff in the summer time due to the high concentration of relatively moderate alpine routes in a fantastic setting above Emerald Lake in the Tyndall Gorge.

The Culp-Bossier is the route in red with the suggested belay's at the green X's

Location 

The approach to the north buttress of Hallett Peak is the easiest of all the alpine rock walls in RMNP and from the Bear Lake trailhead, it is a straight walk for 2 miles up the Tyndall Gorge to Emerald Lake and another mile on talus and scree trails to the base of the route.  The route starts on the left-hand side of the second buttress, below a white quartz dike and a prominent right-facing corner system- the same start as for the Love Route, Englishmen's, and Jackson-Johnson.

Route Information

P1- 30m  Once the snow has melted from the base, step off the ground onto a steep white quartz band 30' high which takes one directly into the large furthest-right facing dihedral on this part of the face.  After 80', step right onto a ledge and traverse right 15' past a pin to a splitter crack for the anchor. (5.6)

Lead climber at the top of pitch 1 with belayers about 25' above the route base

P2- 55m  Step-left out on the ledge to a small right-facing dihedral up for 15' to a hand-traverse right towards a suspended flake.  Clip a knifeblade and then another pin while stepping right into the steep hand crack which is juggy on all sides and has a slung chockstone in the middle section.  At the end of the crack where the angle lowers, step left across a slab into the middle of three right-facing dihedrals with a small grassy ledge. (5.8)

Party rappelling from the top of the second pitch in a storm

P3- 55m   Head-up the steep right-facing dihedral above the belay which is sustained and when there is a slabbier bit on the right after 70', follow this thin crystal traverse right for 20' to a moderate crack through the small roof and then straight up following cracks to a large belay ledge of yellow lichen. (5.8)

Big stance at the top of the third pitch

P4- 30m  Step left out of the belay and traverse across this ledge until around the corner and then up moderate terrain staing left to reach the large quartz ledge at it's far-right side. (5.6)

P5- 55m  Climb straight-up out of the belay on the far-right side of the quartz ledge, first in a layback crack and then on increasingly thinner terrain with a bit of a runout on face holds to reach the obvious corner crack which splits the left side of the whitish arete that defines this side of the second buttress.  Sustained and excellent climbing brings one to a small stance just 30' below the obvious white ceiling in this side of the face. (5.8)

In the middle of the fifth pitch above the quartz ledge

Climbers in the middle of the fifth pitch

P6- 55m  Head out of the belay trending right and up to bypass the large white roof about 20' right of the wide crack that defines it's right edge.  Step back-left after the steeps to gain this crack and follow it mostly straight up and a bit right to another belay stance just below the top.(5.9)

Near the top of the fifth pitch

P7- 35m  Straight-up out of the belay taking the path of least resistance and avoid pulling too hard on the somewhat loose blocks just below the summit plateau.  (5.8)

Descent

From the summit plateau, walk easily east following the many cairns to the end of the escarpment  where you will find a relatively new two-bolt anchor.  A 30m rappel straight down brings you to a big ledge with a threaded sling anchor above.  Another 30m rappel off of this anchor takes you to the dirt and a short down-climb into a gulley which is followed down and skier's left to eventually another scree gulley which winds down and left to the base of the cliff.

Equipment

A standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles of all sizes down to a .25 Camalot and extra shoulder length and double-shoulder-length slings are helpful.   One rope should be sufficient unless the weather is questionable, in which case a second rope, preferrably a tag line would be taken along to facilitate a retreat.  There are very few if any fixed anchors on this entire route.